Showing posts with label greens. Show all posts
Showing posts with label greens. Show all posts

Sunday, February 7, 2016

Kitty Cat Grass Grazing



Anyone with house cats knows what a challenge it is to enjoy both your love of cats and your love of plants. Personally, I've given up and my plants are either hanging or kept in a room the cats aren't allowed. If the kitties weren't using the plant pots as a litter box they were constantly either nibbling at the leaves or turning the plant itself into a cat bed.

So as a pet owner who tries to understand the whys of their behavior rather than just be yelling at them, the reality is, is that cats love to be close to nature just as humans do. They not only enjoy the taste of nibbling on grass, but simply enjoy the smells and feel of fresh greens.

We have to remember that in the wild the first part of the prey predators eat is the stomach and intestinal contents.  Carnivorous animals receive lots of nutrients  needed for their good health. Grasses not only contain necessary fiber for good digestion, but also the benefits of chlorophyll.

So I think cats eat grass for three reasons. They receive nutrition that may be lacking in their usual diet. Eating grass tends to make them vomit which is their way of dealing with a tummy ache and hairballs. And the fact remains that they just may love the taste.

Grass is mainly fiber and being a cat's stomach doesn't have the enzymes needed to digest it, the body induces regurgitation. Now to think like a cat there is good reason for a way to bring back up undigested stomach contents. If you ever watch a cat eat a bird or a rodent it really has no choice but to simply eat the whole thing, bones, fur, feathers and all. The body has no need for certain parts so to bring bones and hair back up, it is nature's way of preventing intestinal damage from the bones or intestinal blockages from hair balls.

Any cat owner knows how fastidious cats can be with their grooming. Unless you are diligent and periodically use a grooming tool such as a furminator to help with shedding, your cat is going to be swallowing cat hair on a daily basis. If you have a cat in the house you just have to accept the fact that you're going to occasionally be dealing with cat vomit. Of course no one looks forward to cleaning up that wet pile of mystery contents nor the fight against the inevitable yellow stains that could spot your carpet or rugs. But no one wants the risk and cost of an intestinal blockage either. So don't make the mistake of not allowing your cat access to cat grass in trying to prevent any vomiting. With nothing to snack on, your cat will turn to your plants and since so many houseplants can be toxic, that is a risk too.

To grow your own cat grass you will need the following:

1.  Small pots
You should have more than one pot of grass growing so you can rotate. Cat grass isn't seeded once and be expected to grow and last very long. Between the cats' grazing, pulling it out of the ground, trying to lay in it, the grass eventually turns brown and falls over. So have more than one growing so you can rotate the pots and have a continuous supply to offer your kitties.
Don't bother using big trays. It'll look nice for a day but soon become a flattened mess from your cat laying and crushing the grass.

2. Organic potting soil
Get good quality potting soil such as Happy Frog. You don't need the risk of your cat ingesting fertilizers, pesticides or herbicides that may be in ordinary soil.

3. Cat grass seed
Wheat, oat, rye or barley seeds are the usual but wheat and oats are the most common. You can buy the seed already labeled as cat grass seed but to save money go to a natural food store that offers bulk raw seed. As long as you keep the seed dry and out of the sun it should stay viable for a few years.

4. Plastic wrap
Grass needs moisture and warmth to germinate. By lightly covering your pot with plastic wrap it increase and speed up the germination rate of the seed. Once the seeds have sprouted you do have to remove the plastic or your pot will mold.

5. Spray bottle with water
The seed has to be kept lightly moistened until germination so it is handy to daily mist the soil surface until the seeds sprout. To just water the whole thing increases the chance the seed will be too wet and not sprout at all. Once the plastic is removed you can water as you normally would.

Steps:
Fill your pots with the soil up to 1-2 inches from the top.
Sprinkle a thin, even layer of seed over the surface.
Cover with about 1/4 inch of soil.
Wet the surface but not to drench.
Cover the pot with plastic wrap.
Put the pots in a dark, warm area. The top of a fridge is a good spot.
Check daily for signs of sprouting, mist if the soil appears dry.
After a few days you'll see signs of seed germination.
Keep the plastic on until the grass is an inch or two high.
Remove the plastic and place the pots in a sunny location.
Once the grass reaches 4-6 inches in height and established, you can offer it to your cats.
If you give them access too soon the roots won't be anchored yet and pull out too easily.
Put the pot on a tray or somewhere you won't mind a little mess. There is a good chance you'll find some grass and dirt outside of the pot.

Cleaning up vomit stains:

Remove the solids and blot blot blot the excess moisture. Don't rub, blot!
Sprinkle baking soda on the area to neutralize the acids and absorb any remaining liquid.
Let the baking soda dry, then vacuum it up.
Follow with a splash of club soda if any stains remain and blot it up.
Remember, don't scrub it while it is wet or the stain may be driven deeper into the carpet fibers.

If you notice your cat actually binging on grass there may be something wrong so it may be best to pay a visit to your veterinarian.




If you do let your cats outside try to keep their wandering limited in order to not only keep them off the road but to be sure they aren't snacking on grass areas that had been sprayed with herbicide or pesticide.


The ultimate in cat greens pleasure is catnip. Catnip is in the mint family so doesn't make a very good houseplant but can easily be grown outside during the summer. If just planted it will return wherever it pleases so unless that doesn't matter to you, be sure to plant it in pots. Catnip is easy to cut and dry so  that you'll have plenty to offer your indoor cats. Here is a good post on the subject of catnip.




 

Wednesday, October 17, 2012

Eat Your Greens! Guinea Pig Care

Our little guinea pig, Bubba, added so much interest to our household. During my daughter's college years she worked a summer at a local thrift store. It was a hot July day and a woman comes to the store with a guinea pig asking if they would accept it as a donation. Policy was and still is that the store does not accept live animals. This woman was persistent in not going home again with it, and worried she would just leave it sit there my daughter made a quick phone call and arranged to take the little thing. 

Bubba was already grown so we never really knew how old he was when we got him. We lost him after having him for four years so my guess is that he was between 5 and 6 years old which is around the life expectancy for a guinea pig. 

We think his type was an Abyssinian (Aby, or Abby), which is one of the oldest breeds of guinea pigs. It is recognized by the symmetrical rosette (hair radiating symmetrically from a center) and erect ridge patterns on its body and head. The fur is coarse and is found in a multiple of colors and color combinations. Our little guy was mostly white.

First thing we did was get him out of the ridiculously small cage he was in. I really hope that isn't what he was kept in all the time in his previous home. We found the perfect pen at a flea market just for rabbits or guinea pigs. It was four feet long and two feet high with plenty of space for him to run around. It had two big doors in the front and a larger door on the top, perfect for the frequent necessary cleanings. Guinea pigs love to stay cool and Bubba would make his water bottle drip so the bedding underneath would be wet and refreshing to his hot little belly during the summer. Nice for him but as we know wet bedding quickly turns in my mind to manure. 

When the kids were small we had our share of hamsters, rats (my sister went to Vet Tech school and adopted two of the lab rats from the program), guinea pigs, mice (for my husband's Florida King snake) and chinchillas. So we learned, sometimes the hard way, how to care for these animals. 

Though widely sold for odor control, cedar bedding is not the best choice for rodents who are low to the ground and have their noses right in the bedding. Use plain pine or aspen shavings for your bedding. Cedar on a continuous basis can become toxic to the liver over time. Being low to the ground and in a typical cage setting, guinea pigs can't do much to get away from their own droppings. It is very important to clean out their bedding at least once a week. If this job is neglected you will soon notice a visibly unkept looking little friend having no choice but to lay in its own waste.  In addition, little manure balls may collect on the tender pads of your guinea's feet. They get hard and make walking painful. Should this happen, soak its feet in warm water before attempting to pull off the packed balls.

Another important thing we learned was that guinea pigs, rabbits and chinchillas cannot share the same food. Even though the pellets look the same, nutritionally they are different. Guinea pigs cannot process their own vitamin C so it is imperative to supplement this vitamin. You can buy vitamin C drops to add to the water bottle and guinea pig food does have extra vitamin C added to it but since we can never be sure how old is the food or supplement when we buy it, it is best to supply fresh greens.  

Bubba absolutely loved greens so it was easy to supply the necessary 10 mg vit. C needed daily.
Whereas our chinchilla loves seeds and dried fruit, Bubba did enjoy an apple slice but adored his greens. From spring through frost he looked so forward to his treats from our outside weeds. Just be sure there are no herbicides, pesticides or fertilizers used on any of these pickings. From our garden he loved kale and calendula and from our foraging he loved chickweed, plantain, timothy grass,clovers, purslane, wild strawberry, chicory and of course dandelion. Below is a full list of safe wild plants. Our fridge supplied carrots, spinach and celery. Don't use iceberg lettuce. It has little nutritional value and can cause diarrhea.

A very important part of the guinea pig diet is a good quality grass hay which should be available at all times. Buy timothy hay or orchard grass rather than alfalfa. Alfalfa is too high in calories and can cause unwanted weight gain. Being the teeth of guinea pigs never stop growing it is very important to provide a continuous supply of hay. Chew blocks don't do a very good job in keeping their teeth trim. Whereas hay keeps both front and back trim, chew blocks only help with the front teeth. 

Guinea pigs are herd animals and are happiest when not alone. If raised together it is possible to house two of the same gender in the same cage but watch for fighting as they mature. It depends on their personalities and size of the cage. We have the chinchilla pen right next to him and there is always a cat or two sitting there so I hope he wasn't lonely. 

Bubba loved attention but didn't like being held. Trimming his nails always resulted in nervous shedding of hair all over the place and a lot of squealing. I miss the sound of his squealing to let me know it is morning and he wants his daily weeds.


 Having this little guy helped all of us learn the importance of adding fresh greens to our diets. Especially in the spring when these plants are young and tender and our bodies are so in need of their cleansing action after a long winter of heavier foods.

Adopting this little guy wasn't just another pet to take care of. Each little soul gives back plenty to us if we just take the time to pay attention.
  1. Grass (common grasses are edible, avoid ornamental grasses), cat grass/wheat grass is also popular and can be grown in pots or containers.
  2. Clover (Trifollium repens or Trifolium pratense)
  3. Dandelion (Teraxacum officinale) - pick leaves, stems, flowers (even root OK)
  4. Anise (Pimpinella anisum)
  5. Blackberry leaves (Rubus plicatus) - pick young & tender leaves and shoots
  6. Calendula (Calendula officinalis) - leaves and flowers
  7. Caraway (Carum carvi)
  8. Chamomile (Anthemis nobilis)
  9. Chickweed (Stellaria media)
  10. Cleavers / Stickyweed / Goosegrass / Bedstraw (Galium aparine)
  11. Coriander (Coriandrum sativum)
  12. Cowberry (Vaccinium vitis-idaeae) - berries, leaves in moderation
  13. Cow Parsley (Anthiscus sylvestris)
  14. Dog Rose (Rosa canina) - ripe fruits
  15. Duckweed (Lemna minor) - aquatic
  16. Fennel (Foeniculum capillaceum)
  17. Field Violet / Wild Pansy (Viola tricolor)
  18. Groundsel (Senecio vulgaris)
  19. Lemon Mint / Melissa (Melissa officinalis)
  20. Linden / Lime Tree (Tilia cordata or Tilia platyphyllos) - flowers with
    pale yellow leaflets
  21. Miner's Lettuce (Claytonia perfoliata)
  22. Peppermint (Mentha piperita)
  23. Plantain (Plantago major or Plantago lanceolata)
  24. Raspberry leaves (Rubus idaeus) - pick young & tender leaves and shoots
  25. Spearmint (mintha spicata)
  26. Stinging Nettle (Urtica dioica)
  27. Shepherd's Purse (Capsella bursa-pastoris)
  28. Silverweed (Potentilla anserina)
  29. Vetch (Vicia x)
  30. Yarrow (Achllea millefolium)
  31. Whortleberry / Heidelberry (Vaccinium myrtillus) - berries, leaves in
    moderation
  32. Wild Chamomile (Matricaria chammomilla)
  33. Wild Strawberry (Fragaria vesca) - berries and leaves