Submissive Urination in Dogs

Dogs are some of the most sensitive creatures on this earth and it is just infuriating and heartbreaking how easily their spirits can be crushed by the ignorance, indifference and thoughtlessness of humans.

Once the damage is done it's done and even with the utmost love and care given in a totally safe and nurturing environment, some dogs may always be a bit insecure and have setbacks.

Many or even most animal behavior issues can be attributed to not a problem with the dog but with the behavior of it's human. If people would just take time to understand natural dog behavior and forms of communication, and stop thinking the dog should think as people do, so many problems could be avoided. To punish a creature who just wants to please and is loyal even in the face of total confusion as to what he is doing so wrong, is disturbing on so many levels. 

Here we have Miner, a young lab mix who not only ended up at the shelter but no less in the "watch" section as a potential aggressive dog, a label which too often results in a much less chance for adoption. To see him now, we cannot imagine the anxiety he must have gone through as he got shuffled from his mom and litter mates to a new home, to a shelter, to another new home and again back to the noise and fear of being trapped in a cage. His "crimes" included his first owners having the lack of time to understand puppy behavior, and the next time around an unsupervised toddler stuck his hand in the food bowl. Dogs usually don't start out as actual biters. They communicate first with body language, then perhaps a warning growl, then if that is ignored there may be a snap, but rarely is that snap intended to harm. How his previous owners handled matters will never be known, but the end result is now a young dog who is known as a Submissive Pee-er. Frustrating behavior that could easily have cost him yet another home. But this time Miner was not only lucky, but very blessed. He was adopted by a young couple who were determined to understand their dog rather than just try to dominate him into "proper" behavior through further submission. 

Excitement Urination and Submissive Urination are both involuntary reactions to conditions in the dog's environment. Involuntary means the behavior is not under his control, he is not trying to deliberately soil the house or "get back at you" as people often think. Once a veterinarian has ruled out any medical or physical causes, then the behavior modification can begin.

Excitement Urination is seen as immaturity and common in young dogs who have not yet developed complete neuromuscular control. The best solution is time and patience. Try to greet your pup outside, get him out frequently, don't made a big deal out of it, and reinforce calm rather than getting him more excited upon greeting or in meeting new people. 

Do Not Punish him or you just may create a Submissive Pee-er.

Submissive urination is more common in certain breeds, including Cocker Spaniels, Golden Retrievers, and Dachshunds, but can occur in any dog. Some dogs are just natured to be more submissive and show other behaviors such as lowered body posture, rolling over, licking and avoiding eye contact. Actually, submissive urination is a natural behavior which starts with the mother dog's practice of stimulating reflexive urination by licking the urogenital area. In the canine world, it keeps a lower-ranking member of a group safe from a higher-ranking member. If you observe dog behavior upon greeting other dogs, there are usually signs that send a clear message of "I am not challenging you". When a dog pees at the feet of his owner he may just be acknowledging that he knows that human is his master.

By the age of eight weeks, puppies usually outgrow natural submissive urination. They gain more confidence as they mature and don't perceive so many things as a threat to their safety. But if a puppy is punished for normal housetraining accidents or other normal puppy behavior such as chewing and excited barking, peeing may become associated with expected punishment every time he sees the approach of his owner. This can also happen if there is another dog in the house who is a bully.

Ok, so we know all that, yet here we are now, trying to deal with what we're left with from someone else's mistakes.

I'll let Miner's story be told by his now forever Mom and Dad:

"Submissive Peeing. It's a term my husband and I had never heard until we adopted Miner, our Lab/Shepherd adopted from the Greenbrier Humane Society in Lewisburg, WV, in August 2014.

When he first met us, he peed all over the lobby entryway; the staff said it was because he was excited. He did the same thing when we picked him up to take him home the next day. Then he peed the next day, and the next, and so on. It got worse when my husband would call him over or lean over to pet him. Over time, we realized something was going on, especially when he would hang his head as if he was in trouble. He would also try and lick up his pee before our trusty Seventh Generation wipes could clean it up. Our poor boy could not seem to control his pee, no matter how wonderful we treated him.

Enter a dog trainer and a helpful site called www.pets.webmd.com and we had a diagnosis. Submissive peeing, by definition, is done to show social appeasement. When a dog submissively urinates, he or she is trying to convey that they are not a threat. Not all dogs submissively urinate. However, some will urinate when they're exceptionally excited or feeling submissive or intimidated. In Miner's case, his history of being abused led him to think all men would hurt him. When my husband would lean over to pet him, Miner was expecting to be hit on the head. When he would be called over, Miner was expecting punishment. By then licking up the pee, he was getting rid of all evidence that he was scared of his master. It was a vicious cycle, and just when we thought things were going better, my husband would be away for a few days and it would start back up again as soon as he came home.

It has been almost two years since we brought this handsome fella into our lives, and he truly has changed our lives for the better. He does submissively pee on occasions, but it's nowhere near as often as a year ago. My husband can play with him now rather than Miner peeing as soon as my husband would act excited over a game they play together. Patience was the key to where we are today. It may never go away completely, and I certainly wish I could take away any type of mistreatment in his past. 

To others in this situation: Stay strong and hang in there. It can be extremely frustrating to have pee happen anytime, anywhere in the house. Have wipes on hand and remember: Your dog is trying to tell you something. Have patience and don't give up on him, just continue to love. These guys need that more than anything, since you, their master, are their entire world. 

Love them with all you have and I promise you, they'll return the gesture."

Here is Miner today, a much more confident pup

An excellent article on the subject of Excitement vs. Submissive Urination by Pat Miller

Her advice:

Whenever possible, greet the dog outdoors

Keep the greeting calm. Rapid body movements and loud voices can easily be a trigger. 

Have a calm, soft mannerism when speaking to your dog.

Be sure to take him out frequently so he isn't always holding in a full bladder.

Don't be overbearing when bending down to your dog. Turn your body sideways and kneel down with the upper body straight rather than bending over.

Avoid direct eye contact, let him approach you.

 Rather than him seeing you reach for the top of his head to pet him, scratch him under the chin.

Give visitors treats to give your dog rather than the usual petting of the top of the head. This encourages the dog to increase body height and move forward rather than feel the need to cower.

When accidents do happen, do not react verbally or physically. Calmly clean it up.

Remember that your dog can't help it.

Patience, Patience, Patience...it will get better.

Cats and Halloween, Debunk the Stigma

The stigma surrounding cats, especially black cats, has long been associated with evil, black magic, witchcraft and superstition. Believers in the metaphysical often use caution around a number of things that are said to bring bad luck, and a black cat crossing their path is one of them.

These negative associations go back centuries, all the way back to Greek mythology.
In Ovid's tale, Galinthias was one of the servants of the mother of Hercules, Alcmene, and her attempts to help got her into quite the predicament.
Alcmene was the wife of Amphitryon. Zeus disguised himself as Amphitryon in order to have relations with Alcmene and she became pregnant. Zeus's wife, Hera, became furious and tried to prevent the birth. Galinthias got involved by playing a trick on Hera which enabled Alcmene to successfully give birth to Hercules. Hera took her revenge on Galinthias by turning her into a cat and sending her to the underworld. She was to act as a priestess of Hecate, the goddess of death and the queen of witches. Because of the connection with Hecate, black cats were then thought to be an omen of death and associated with witchcraft.

The word for 'the fear of cats' is ailurophobia. This came from the name Ailuros, which was the Greek name for the ancient Egyptian goddess Bast. The Greeks saw Bast as a version of their lunar goddess Artemis. It was said that Artemis turned herself into a cat in order to escape the god of wind, Typhon,

During the Middle Ages, superstitions around black magic were abundant, and black cats were targeted. Pope Gregory XI had published the "Vox in Rama" document in 1233 to deal with the subject of devil worship. He claimed that black cats were the incarnation of Satan, therefore, throughout the next century black cats were slaughtered.
Interesting is that with the killing of cats, the rodent population escalated which helped spread the bubonic plague during the 14th century killing millions of people. Pope Gregory may have been long dead by then but superstitions stick and even to this day people associate cats with scorcery.
During the witch hunt era, 1450 to 1750, black cats were seen as being such evil companions to their "witches" that they were burned in baskets alongside their owners.

The trend of labeling black cats as evil came to the United States with the Pilgrims in the Plymouth colony. The Puritan Pilgrims distrusted anything associated with sorcery and actively persecuted black cats just for being the color black. It became a practice to burn black cats on Shrove Tuesday to protect the home from fire. 

As time passed and this practice died down, black cats had become part of all the legends behind witches. As the celebration of Halloween became more commercial, black cats became part of the usual Halloween decorations. The bristled fur, claws and green eyes just added to the desired spooky effect.

Animal shelters are very aware of the concern with people wanting to adopt cats around Halloween just to use them in satanic rituals or sadistic pranks. Back in the 1980's and 90's there were restrictions on adoptions in the weeks leading up to Halloween. Today those concerns are still present, however, due to the need for homes with the abundance of cats in shelters, those bans are no longer in place. Adopting black animals in October has even become a promotional tactic to increase awareness of the need for homes for these pets.

The kitty pictured above may look terrifying, but in reality she is just our Bella letting me know she is hungry!

Infectious Diseases in Cats, Importance of Vaccination

What do you do when a kitten on the brink of death is brought to your door by a neighbor child who found him alongside the road in the gutter and whose parents instructed her to get rid of it?

Feeling terrible not only for the poor cat but for the distraught little girl who didn't know what to do, we said he could stay .

Let's go back years ago to 1997 and so we began a real education on the importance of vaccination as well as the limitations.

Oliver came to us in pretty poor shape. He was an emaciated weight of barely four pounds, thinning fur, pasty eyes, drippy, sneezing, sore nose, and infection in both ears. Where do we begin?

Not wanting to introduce anything contagious to our other cats we separated Oliver from the household until we could get him to a vet. Not even sure if he would make it till morning, we kept him comfortable in our barn for that first night. It was summertime so nighttime temperatures weren't a problem.

I was actually surprised to find him still alive in the morning. Unknowingly, that veterinarian visit was the start of an eight year fight to keep little Oliver going. His age was estimated from six months to a year. Oliver was kept a few days for observation, given fluids and IV medication, and then we were sent home on antibiotics and told to make him comfortable and see what happens. 

Being our other cats were vaccinated I brought Oliver into the house, assuming they would be fine. Turns out that may have been a mistake. Though my cats were vaccinated against the F3 which are the core vaccinations as well as Feline Leukemia, some of them developed symptoms of upper respiratory distress. The vet said there is no way to predict how cat immune systems will respond to vaccination. The symptoms disappeared for some, others had no problems at all, and a few developed chronic respiratory problems for the remainder of their lives. All the vet could say was that is the risk in a multi-cat household. 

Even so, to criticize vaccination in general would have been an attitude of ignorance. As a child growing up on a farm where cats were considered our pets, but proper vet care for vaccination schedules and neutering just wasn't financially feasible, we witnessed time and again the heartache of losing them to distemper or respiratory illness. The strong survived but once the population reached a certain point the cycle started all over again.

The antibiotics used with Oliver varied as we were always trying something new. Viruses in a cat's respiratory tract are incredibly difficult to treat. Secondary bacterial infections develop which results in the yellow discharge from the nose and ear infections. Antibiotics cleared up those symptoms and brought relief for a while but the cycle always returned. The types used for Oliver included Amoxacillian, Clavamox, Baytril, Orbax, Chloramphenical, the anti-inflammatory Dexamethasone and the steroid Prednisone when necessary. We thought we finally found a balance with a combination of Baytril and Prednisone but then something burst in his right ear and so began a life of constantly treating the black discharge from that ear. Ultimately he lost his hearing in that right ear.

We used saline washes to help clear his nose, almond or olive oil infused in garlic to clean his ears and his sore little nose, administered vitamin C and cod liver oil daily. added a supplement blend to his diet which was nutritional yeast, kelp, lecithin granules, wheat germ, oat bran and bone meal. 

We suspect the main issue with Oliver was the Feline herpes virus. We could never really get it out of his system and his entire life was plagued with its relapses. 

Our tough little boy had cycles of wasting away but always bounced back. Aside from the medical treatments and extra nutritional boosts, to this day I believe what kept him going was the love all around him. He was fussed over continuously by my children and when at his worst always could be found sleeping with one of them. Adored by our dogs, they helped keep his face clean with their gentle licking. Never underestimate the power of love and touch. During his good days Oliver played as rough as the best of them. 

Excuse the quality of these photos. They were taken long before digital camera and I could only do so much with editing. But they are precious memories and I attribute those times with helping to develop my children into the empathetic and loving young adults they are today. Both continue to love animals dearly and involve themselves in animal rescue.

Don't ever underestimate the power of love. The will to live and the boost to the immune system can sometimes be almost miraculous.

Vaccinations have greatly reduced the incidence of a number of infectious diseases in our pets. They work by introducing either a modified live vaccine which contains viruses that have been altered so that they are no longer able to cause disease or a killed vaccine of the disease causing organism (virus or bacteria) to the body. This stimulates the immune system, making it better able to defend itself against the disease if the animal gets exposed.

The following information was taken from Cat World.

Core vaccinations are vaccinations that should be given to cats no matter where they live.
 They are called F3 vaccines.

Feline panleukopenia which is feline enteritis or feline distemper
Feline herpes virus which is the cat flu
Feline calicivirus which is also the cat flu

Non-core vaccinations are vaccinations which may not be necessary for all cats. It depends on location and the level of risk such as if the cat is strictly an indoor cat, allowed to occasionally go outside or is an outdoor cat all the time.

Feline leukaemia virus
Chlamydophila psitaci
Bordetella bronchiseptica
Feline immunodeficiency virus which is FIV or Cat Aids
Rabies

While there are chance of side effects with vaccines, the prevention offered from disease far outweighs the risks. There are rare cases of allergic or anaphylactic reactions but usually the pet just gets sleepy or has a day of some sniffling or sneezing. Pregnant cats should never be vaccinated due to risking harm to the kittens.

Vaccination schedules are generally:
F3 (first shot) be given at 8 weeks
F3 (second shot) be given at 12 weeks
F3 (third shot) be given at 16 weeks
F3 (booster shot) be given at 1 year
Rabies be given at 12 weeks
Rabies (booster shot) be given at 1 year

Veterinarians differ in their opinions as to how often a pet needs to be vaccinated after those initial vaccines are given. Indoor cats still need to be vaccinated but if they are a low risk to exposure they may not need to be re-vaccinated on a yearly basis. Every three years may be sufficient. If your cat lives outdoors and is always at risk of exposure to other cats that may not be vaccinated then yearly shots may be recommended.

Hound from the Pound, a Marley update

Then

4 months later

It has been four months since Marley came into our lives from The Greenbrier Humane Society in West Virginia. I can now say we've made the adjustment and thank goodness it is behind us. That is said with a tired laugh because getting Marley (previously Henry) acclimated to become a well-mannered house dog has been quite the challenge.

We know as parents it does our kids a disservice to compare them to one another. It is the same with our dogs. To compare Marley to our other dogs wasn't at all fair and we sought out information on his breed several times to try to understand just why certain behaviors were so frustrating.

Hounds are scent dogs which means they get easily distracted. Getting them to stay focused when outside to go potty and not get sidetracked can make a five minute pee time stretch into fifteen. Also, because he had been confined to a cement floor for weeks, I believe he thought that using the basement floor as the spot for elimination was the right thing to do. Once a certain spot is used, the habit of returning to that same spot can be hard to break. I've relied on enzyme sprays and vinegar to eliminate any odor that he may detect even if unnoticed by anyone else.

We brought Marley home during the month of November which was not an ideal time of the year. First of all, it was hunting season and the sound of gunfire sent this dog between my legs several times, totally thwarting any further attempts to get him to go potty. Who knows what he went through with his previous owner and "puppy hunting dog training", but loud noises seriously unnerve him.


Second, winter weather can be quite the deterrent to getting outside enough for adequate exercise if dependent solely on the leash. We already had the underground, invisible fencing system for our other dogs. We just had to wait till the weather broke so we could have the fencing company come back with more flags and give Marley a bit of training. I also wanted to have some time till we had walked our property perimeter enough so that Marley would have a sense of his limitations and the line would be well marked with the dogs' urine spots.

We had our doubts that underground invisible fencing would work with a hound. Usually, the advice is that an actual physical fence (at least six feet high) is necessary to keep this type of dog home when off leash. They are scent dogs which means once on a mission they may go right through the warning beep and zap of the underground line. They are excellent jumpers and have even been known to try to climb trees (they were bred to tree a coon so if excited will try in earnest to climb after something they want). But with Marley, so far our system is working. It could be that he is just a sensitive soul, or perhaps he just wants to stay home with the other dogs.

Again, being a scent dog as well as a tall dog, it is still difficult to keep Marley from jumping up to reach things on the counter, stove top, stay out of the trash, recycling and compost bucket under the sink. Two things that do deter him are either the squirt of the water bottle or a shake from a can filled with coins or screws. The cabinets are child-proofed to keep his prying nose out of there.

It is very accurate that these dogs are described as chow hounds. I have to really pay attention at feeding time or be sure Marley eats in his crate. Since he had a history of hunger and eats so fast compared to the other two dogs, he needed to learn he couldn't just stick his head into their dishes and help himself.

Initially, when the three dogs first met, Marley was the submissive one and seemed to be fine with that status. But as a young adolescent male, as he grew more secure with his new environment we did have a few incidences where he challenged one of the other dogs. Thankfully they worked out their issues, but the experience of fighting dogs almost cost Marley his happy home. Thanks to some good advice, more time, and plenty of opportunity for exercise, there is peace and play again.

Interesting with this dog is that whereas with the other dogs, a loud voice was usually enough to grab their attention and nip in the bud any path of destruction. Not with Marley. Yelling was futile and didn't phase him one bit. What works is a loud "eh eh" followed by distraction and positive reinforcement. I think he just does things since he knows I'll come running and get involved in his antics.


We have a gate across the hallway leading to the upstairs. Marley knows that is where the cats hang out along with all their crinkly, jingly toys. So any chance he can get, he'll sneak up there. There is a 10 x 7 inch cat door as part of the gate and this sausage bodied dog, though now a good 55 pounds, can still amazingly slide right through that hole with hardly a sound. Hopefully, he'll eventually be able to have free run of the house but for now he is too unpredictably destructive. One of his favorite games is to get under the blankets and have a good old time.

Now that life has settled down we are really starting to enjoy this dog. He is just such a happy to be alive free spirit who bumbles his way through the day. Anyone who needs a good laugh should spend time with a hound dog. Given room to run and stretch those long legs, it is so satisfying to just watch this dog and reflect back on how far he has come. The way he leaps and prances, it reminds me of a young frisky foal, chasing the wind.

Anyone thinking of getting a hound dog needs to fully understand their need for enough play, enough time to sniff to the hearts content and just run around. Pent up energy leads to long, frustrating days of pacing and whining and anxiety ridden trouble. If there is the need to be cooped up in a crate during the day, there has to be a release when set free to get all the boredom out of the system.
A tired dog makes a good house dog.

Updated May 2015
Six months in his new home, 25 pounds heavier and what a transformation

Our Pets and Winter Cold

Social media has been a blessing for raising awareness and changing attitudes in the care of cats and dogs. Depending on the region, cats, dogs and horses are either considered part of the family, part of a working farm or ranch, or considered simply a watch or guard dog. Naturally the quality of their care goes hand in hand with the value of their worth to the owner.

If at all possible, please don't leave your pets outside during horrid weather. They are creatures of comfort just like we are. If we opted to take on their care then it is our responsibility to do it with their best interests in mind. An outdoor shed or garage is better than being left to fend for themselves. 

During the bitter cold of winter, people have to understand that just because animals have fur doesn't mean they can always acclimate to harsh winter conditions. With dogs it depends on the breed and what type of fur they have. Dogs that have only a single layer of coat can withstand some cold but basically, if it's uncomfortable for you to be outside without a coat then your dog is probably going to get cold too.

Breeds with an undercoat (such as Eskimos, Huskies, Samoyans, Chows, Elkhounds, Akitas, Iceland Sheepdogs, Chinooks, and Wolf-hybrids) have a thick, downy layer that will help them keep warm.
The bodies of dogs who live outside will adjust to the change of seasons. They will instinctively eat more in early fall so as to add layers of fat for winter warmth, and then shed in the spring to ready themselves for the heat of summer.

Dogs that must live outdoors need to have proper shelter from the elements, good quality food and fresh, not frozen, water. Heavily fill the dog house with straw, filling it over half-full. Dogs love to circle around and stomp down the bedding in order to make a nest to curl up in. Also place plenty of straw at the entrance to the dog house so the pads of their feet won't be directly on the snow or ice.  Blankets may seem nice and soft, but they tend to just feel cold to the pet.
Have a wind block over the opening to protect the dog from wind blowing in and creating a draft.

Be prepared to break ice two or three times a day in the water bowls. Don't expect your dog to lick ice or eat snow to stay hydrated. Dogs will eat the snow but don't have them rely on that for their need for water. Eating snow will lower core temp very quickly, faster than the body can compensate.  Because it gets the body cold from the inside out, dogs can easily get hypothermia and freeze to death in frigid temperatures.

Provide extra food to the diet to help compensate for the energy necessary in keeping warm.

Keep an eye on their feet. Ice and snow balls can develop under the nails of dogs, especially on those who have fur between the toe pads. These harden and can make walking painful.

Even the most skittish stray dog is usually noticed before too long and help is gotten for its capture. Cats on the other hand are a different matter. Cats wandering around are rarely given a second thought at first because it is usually assumed they belong to somebody. People have the attitude that there will always be cats and as predators they are fine fending for themselves. That is a misconception. It may sound counter-productive, but in reality, a well-fed cat hunts better. A cat is only successful 2-3 times per 10 times it hunts. Cats need food on a daily basis so they can be strong enough to hunt. Also, being domesticated animals, not all cats have the desire to hunt. Just like us, they all have different personalities. Some will kill anything that moves, others would rather watch and be entertained.

Outdoor cats need care just like our dogs. They need fresh water, regular feeding and proper shelter. Just because cats will crawl under a bush somewhere, don't have the mentality that they know how to survive and will be fine. We have taken in a few cats over the years who arrived with frostbitten ear tips and toes.

Unless you know the food gets eaten immediately, don't bother with canned or wet food. It is easier to feed dry food being it won't freeze if left out for hours.

Keep fresh water available. Dry food may be more practical but if that is what the cat is eating, it isn't getting the needed water content. Cats (and dogs) that don't drink enough are prone to kidney problems. Dehydration is a real danger if available water is frozen. Don't expect a cat to eat the snow. Eating snow only lowers the body temperature, increasing the risk for hypothermia.

Here is an excellent video on how to build a feral or stray cat shelter. Whatever shelter you arrange for outside cats, remember four things:
Elevation...you don't want water or snow creeping inside.
Two holes, one for an entrance, one for an escape.
Access to the inside for cleaning purposes and getting to an injured cat.
Use straw for bedding rather than hay or cloth. Hay and cloth hold moisture.

Cats will crawl into the oddest places of seek warmth. Try to remember to check under your car's wheel wells and under the hood before starting it up.

Taking care of stray cats is wonderful but if these animals are not to be your pets or are feral please use the TNR (trap, neuter, release) method. If you are feeding stray cats, you have to realize that if you are feeding them they are not going anywhere. Your intentions may be in the right place by helping stray cats survive, but you must take responsibility and have them neutered so they don't reproduce. Besides adding to the number of mouths to feed, an increase in number is only inviting the risk of premature death due to disease, fighting and overpopulation.

As public awareness increases, so is empathy for the plight of animals who are so defenseless and dependent on people for their care. Domesticated animals may survive on their own but too often they needlessly suffer. State by state it is becoming illegal to leave a pet outdoors in unfit weather. In doing so, the owner risks his pet be picked up by animal control and being served a fine. If that is what it takes to get people to pay attention than hallelujah.

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"Ain't Nothin' But a Hound Dog", Say it's not so

November 14, 2014 on his way to a new home, he just doesn't know it yet.

Better than a concrete floor

Five days later, what a transformation

I have to admit when it came to hounds the only types I even thought of were the beagle and the basset hound. And then along came Henry, a Treeing Walker Coonhound, whom we renamed Marley.

Our daughter relocated to West Virginia and became involved with the animal shelter in her area, The Greenbrier Humane Society. 

She soon found out that hounds in that area are like pit bulls in our area, no one wants them due to reputation. Here is an interesting history to the Coonhound breed.

Languishing in overcrowded kennels are a breed that people tend to think serve only one purpose, that of hunting dog, a man's dog. If the owner thinks the dog isn't cut out to track down rabbits, fox or coons, than they aren't worth the cost of their upkeep. So out they go. The countless dogs that are picked up by animal control are labeled as strays, with no background to go on to help them get into a forever home. Were they strays because someone dumped them alongside the road? Were they strays because they had their nose to the ground, wandered far and wide, and couldn't find their way back home? A dog that doesn't make a good hunting dog, service dog, retrieving dog, or whatever their particular breed is supposed to excel at, isn't necessarily "stupid". 

These dogs need a break. They need a voice to break the misconceptions about their success as family pets. Elvis didn’t help their image any by singing, “You ain’t nothin’ but a hound dog, cryin’ all the time”. Yes, hounds do have a distinct voice, but in one regard they are not any more annoyingly vocal than any other dog if trapped in a crate, kennel, outdoor dog box for hours on end. Any bored, frustrated, lonely dog is going to bark. However, should a Coonhound do what they were bred to do, which is to tree a racoon (or a cat in the usual neighborhood setting), they will let you know so you can come and see what a good job they've done. Marley can be relentless in his tirade but as soon as he sees me he stops and comes running right to me. Left to their own devices, they'll keep barking till they get bored. In other words, don't just let them outside and forget about them, they do need supervision if you have close neighbors.

I have found our Marley "quick as a whip". Dogs only want to please, and with a consistent routine, they soon learn what is expected of them. Most behavior problems stem from a dog's confusion as to what he is supposed to do. Rescue dogs are all the more of a challenge, because you are most likely going to have to help him regain human trust, undo bad habits and deal with past traumatic experiences or neglect. Patience is the key to success with a rescue.

I took this dog in with the full understanding of the challenge I had with a dog who suffered neglect and most likely had no clue how to live in a house. Supervision is paramount, just like with a young child. Think of a two year old. A dog's mouth is our hands. Everything a child sees, he has to touch. Everything a puppy sees, he has to touch, and that can mean destruction. Many times, these dogs may first appear calm and meek. It only took a consistent full belly, a warm bed, health issues addressed, and increased confidence that this new family was his very own, and an amazing transformation took place. This supposedly low energy, depressed dog turned into an energy dynamo with the potential to get into a lot of trouble.  My thoughts were, oh great, I just adopted a 45 pound puppy. One thing I found out pretty quick was that this breed needs exercise and lots of it. At least with Marley, if he is wound up with no outlet he will pace and whine and pace some more. But this lanky, impulsive adolescent can just melt your heart when it comes time to settle down. He just can't get enough snuggle time, and it is adorable with his long, deer-like legs sprawled every which way.

My two stipulations were that he be good with my cats and my other dogs. Hounds are bred to hunt in packs of two to four dogs, therefore are by nature very social animals. It took only days for my little pack of three to establish its status order. Hounds are not aggressive dogs, and will avoid a fight if at all possible. A few squabbles, which do sound worse than they really are, and within days Marley was accepted and included in their play, as well as sleeping area.

As far as getting along with cats, some are and some aren't. It didn't take long before Marley knew which cats to leave alone. After careful observation, I now know he only wants to play, but being such a strong dog, he could end up hurting them. Therefore, once again, supervision at all times he is out of the crate, is necessary for a while.

We're only a few months into this new chapter in my crazy household, so I intend to update this post as Marley matures. The whole point is to do your research before you let big, sad eyes make your decision for you. Be prepared to have the time and energy for taking on the unknown. 

But, rest assured, the rewards in rescue, fostering and/or adoption far outweigh the extra work. 

You are saving a life.

A heartfelt thank you to the hard-working staff at Greenbrier Humane Society and all rescue groups who give it their all to take care of  homeless animals until foster groups or forever families can be found. 

Click here for a good article on what to expect before adopting a pet.

 

This little book  by September B. Morn is a gem for understanding dog behavior.

Here we have a great advice video on housebreaking a dog of any age.

In this first of a two-part series, Dr. Karen Becker discusses the four key principles for housebreaking a dog of any age.

"Up to 25 percent of dogs relinquished to animal shelters by their owners end up there due to housebreaking problems. The same statistic applies to dogs seen by veterinarians -- 25 percent of behavior-related visits to vets concern toileting."

Two months later

Though Marley doesn't get to see her much, he still has a special bond with his rescuer

 

Three months later

 Marley received his collar from Astro Invisible Fencing so now he can run free and play!!!
 So many problems solved with enough exercise
Be aware that the underground invisible fence system may not work for all hound dogs.
If possible, an actual, physical fence at least six feet high is ideal.


Here is the six month later update

Declawing Indoor Cats, Is it Really Necessary?

Growing up on a farm, the attitude towards animals was that they belong outside. When the day came for setting up my own household, which included pets, I just went along with the advice given about having cats indoors. I had this image that if I didn't declaw my cats my carpets and furniture would be in shreds.

That attitude came to an end 20 years ago with the declawing of my little Kimba. She was found as a kitten on the side of a country road, and when she reached the age to be spayed, the appointment automatically included the declaw without any discussion from the veterinarian about the pros and cons.

Kimba had such a sweet nature that I seriously doubt she ever would've been a problem anyway with damaging anything in the house. Her toes had a lot of trouble healing properly and a few of the nails even grew back, but were deformed. Needless to say, I felt terrible for taking a perfectly behaved kitten and creating a lifetime of anxiety issues with the litter box. The grit probably hurt her, and being wary of the litter box, she used other spots to do her business.

Declawing indoor cats became commonplace after the 1940's. People falsely assume that declawing is just like trimming your nails or getting a manicure.This is not true. The last digit of each toe is cut off, not just the nail.



It is believed that if the procedure is done before the age of six months of age, the cat heals quickly and gets along just fine without them. If an experienced veterinarian performs the procedure right, no residual pain supposedly occurs; but that is up for debate. So what do those of us who had used experienced veterinarians do once it is too late?

Cats that have had their front claws removed continue to stretch and paw their toes as if the nails were still there. They derive the same satisfaction from this as clawed cats. It is the nature of cats to use their claws in their everyday lives. Kneading and climbing is all part of play and feeling a sense of confidence in defending themselves. Cats have extraordinary balance. Without claws, they may lose some of that coordination. It may not be noticeable in a typical home setting, but is very obvious with a cat trying to scamper up a tree to escape a dangerous situation.



Cats feel safe in high places. To no longer be able to simply leap and climb with the agility it once had is psychologically devastating, and definitely puts its physical safety at risk. Indoor cats can easily slip out of doors. Once out of the safety of their homes, they are all alone and at a greater risk without their most valuable natural defense.

Feeling insecure, some declawed cats become aggressive and may develop a tendency to bite. So the theory that cats need to be declawed to be safe around young children is simply not always true. Pet owners may be creating the very situation they thought they were doing the right thing to avoid.



Ways to handle a cat's natural urge to stretch, knead and sharpen its claws against objects is to invest in cat scratchers or cat furniture with sisal rope around the posts; and to trim those nails every 6 weeks. Cats will naturally be drawn to a good quality cat tree with a scratching post wrapped with sisal rope. Don't waste money on cheap cat trees of inferior quality. If the thing isn't sturdy and moves or jiggles when used, a cat won't use it. Carpet wrapped posts are pretty but sisal rope is the best for nail clawing satisfaction.

Today, veterinarians are more apt to discourage the declawing of cats, some even refuse to perform the surgery. Perhaps in most cases the cat seems fine afterwards, but is the procedure necessary in the first place? 

In my opinion, no. If our fur babies could speak, I'm sure they would agree.

Easter Bunnies and Children, What you Need to Know

 
Spring is the season for new beginnings, new life and images of cute baby animals associated with anything to do with Easter. Chicks, ducklings and baby rabbits are adorable, therefore easily exploited by pet stores and breeders as perfect gifts for Easter time.

Think long and hard before adopting any pet, much less impulsively caving in to your children's pleas to take home those furry or fluffy little bodies at the pet or farm supply store. These animals are not toys. They are living, breathing, feeling beings who require responsible care from someone committed to their welfare.

Babies don't stay babies for long and far too often, once the novelty wears off, these animals end up neglected or abandoned. Quiet animals are the most at risk, since it is far too easy to simply forget about them. It is hard to ignore a hungry cat or dog, but a bunny cannot speak for itself, nor is it easy to get anyone's attention while locked in a cage.

If you do decide to bring home a bunny, do not put it in the care of your child. Rabbits may be easy to love, but they are not low maintenance pets. They are lovable, social creatures who can live ten years or more with the proper care. If at all possible, try to support your local animal shelters or rescue groups. It is always better to adopt an animal in need of a home rather than support the breeding industry of the pet store.

Domestic rabbits should live indoors. They are not the same as their wild relatives. They don't tolerate the extremes in weather conditions of the outdoors, especially the heat during the summer months. Rabbits frighten very easily. Just the sight or sound of a predator animal can cause enough stress for a rabbit to suffer a heart attack.

Your bunny's home within your home must be a safe zone. Rabbits like to chew and can do a lot of damage to furniture, wall corners, baseboards and electrical cords if left unattended. Houseplants such as aloe, azalea, Calla lily, Lily of the Valley, philodendron and certain bulbs can be poisonous. There is nothing wrong with periodically letting your bunny run around to play and explore. Rabbits need the socialization, stimulation and exercise, just keep a close eye on them. Otherwise, provide a nice roomy cage for your bunny to call his own. 

A rabbit's cage should be at least five times his size. He needs to be able to completely stretch out and stand up on his back legs without bumping the sides or the top of the cage. If the cage only came with a wire bottom, be sure to layer the floor with cardboard of some type of nontoxic material. The feet of rabbits don't have protective pads like those of cats and dogs, so they are tender and susceptible to injury if forced to step on wire all the time. Also, provide a hiding area for quiet time, such as a cardboard box or bunny condo from the pet store. 

Your rabbit is safe in his cage, but don't think just because he is often still and quiet that he doesn't need stimulation and interaction. Rabbits are social creatures. Optimally, it would be wonderful if two bunnies around the same age could be adopted at the same time. If you already have a rabbit and want to give it some company, check with a rescue group as to how to introduce them so they will bond.

Rabbits are clean animals and can be litter box trained. Even if a litter box isn't provided, they often choose on their own to do their business in a chosen corner of the cage. Just by saying the word litter box people may think that means to add kitty litter. Do not use cat litter. The ideal bedding should be made of wood pulp or paper. Don't use cedar or treated wood shavings, as they can cause liver damage or trigger allergic reactions. 

Pet stores sell rabbit pellets, but don't rely on that as the basis for your pet's diet. Rabbits have complex digestive systems. Rabbits need hay, namely Timothy grass hay. Alfalfa hay is high in protein, calcium and calories, so should only be given periodically in limited amounts.
Besides the pellets and hay, make an effort to include leafy, dark green vegetables such as romaine and leaf lettuces (not iceberg lettuce), parsley, dandelion greens, collard greens, chickweed, etc. Variety is important. Like everyone, treats are appreciated, but best in moderation. Rabbits enjoy carrots, apple slices, strawberries, melon, peaches and blueberries. Grapes and raisins are good too, but being more sugary, limit how often you offer those.
Foods to avoid include: iceberg lettuce, tomatoes, cabbage, corn, beans, peas, beets, seeds, grains and rhubarb.

Rabbits need fresh water daily. Make sure you rabbit is shown where and how to use the sipper bottle. Be sure to clean the bottle and tube whenever the water gets changed. If you choose to use a bowl instead of the sipper bottle, be sure it is a heavy ceramic type so as to avoid being tipped.

To avoid problems with the teeth as well as provide amusement, keep untreated wood blocks or cardboard in the cage. Empty toilet paper and paper towel tubes are great for bunnies to chew and play. Avoid anything with sharp edges or rubber and plastics that can be chewed and swallowed.

Rabbits are fragile and must be handled carefully. A struggling rabbit can do itself damage because its bones are delicate in comparison to the powerful muscles in their hind legs.
To pick up your rabbit, place one hand underneath the front of the rabbit and the other hand underneath his back side, lifting him carefully with both hands and bringing him against your body. Never let a rabbit’s body hang free, never lift by the stomach, and never pick a rabbit up by his ears.

Rabbits enjoy being petted but may need time to tolerate being picked up. Be very careful with supervising young children when they handle their bunnies. Rabbits cannot cough up hairballs, so try to pet and/or brush them daily to remove excess fur. Breeds like angoras definitely have grooming needs so be aware of that before bringing home the long-haired types.

Like any pet, rabbits need to receive periodic medical care. Be sure to find a veterinarian with experience with rabbits or find a vet who specializes in exotic pets.
The decision to spay or neuter your rabbit is your choice, but in doing so you not only prevent unwanted litters of kits but eliminate the risk of cancer. Neutering males eliminates the risk of testicular cancer and can reduce aggression and territory-marking behaviors. Spaying females eliminates the risk of reproductive cancers very common as they get older.
Again, be sure to know what experience your vet has had with rabbits. We once had a devastating experience when we lost a bunny under anesthesia, not realizing how sensitive rabbits are to the type of anesthesia typically used for cats, and just assumed the vet was aware of that.

So Happy Easter, and enjoy these wonderful additions to your family!

 

TRIBUTE TO A DEAR FRIEND

 
 “Until one has loved an animal, a part of one’s soul remains unawakened.” 
--  Anatole France


It has often been said with rescued animals that the rescuing goes both ways. When my daughter took in an older cat she was living away from home while in Grad School. Under a lot of pressure with her studies, trying to find her way on her own, and lonely for the comforts and company from back home. Our home is a lively place, to put it mildly. We have always opened our door to animals in need of a home, and our children grew up into very aware and giving people. To live in a quiet, sterile, environment was taking its toll on Aleka's emotional and physical health. She needed life around her and the comfort of a companion by her side.

Enter Mozart into our lives. He was a 12 year old cat in need of a home for the third time. Due to no fault of his own he found himself on the way to the humane society unless he could be placed. There was something about him that drew him to my daughter. She received all the usual warnings about the risks of adopting an older pet, such as health issues, behavior problems, unknown history, blah blah blah.

Anyone who has had cats knows that it is impossible to simply state, "I don't like cats". Every cat we've ever had was a unique individual; some lap cats, some not, some sprayers, most not, some into everything, some content to sleep all day, some bullies, some timid. Mozart was the perfect gentleman. He was very intuitive to Aleka's moods, often being very attentive and always nearby. The perfect remedy to reduce stress, lift depression, take an edge off loneliness.

When he visibly started to lose weight after only a year, there were tests run and observations made. Devastated by the news of cancer, my daughter and her fiance just pulled that cat even closer. Other than the weight loss his behavior initially didn't show any outward signs of distress, but after only six weeks he dropped from fifteen pounds to nine pounds. By that point, he was put on an appetite stimulant and additional nutritional supplements. Hesitant to go the route of steroids, by eight weeks he was put on a ten day supply of prednisone just to help him feel better, which it did, though we knew we were just biding time. At the first sign he was in any discomfort, the decision had to be made whether to let nature take its course, or to give Mozart the final gift of their love. Now down to only six pounds, when it was noticeable that his breathing had become more labored and had problems relieving himself, they made the hardest decision they've ever had to make in their young lives.

The first day or two after saying good-bye, there were plenty of well wishers to offer condolences. But as things go, people return to their own worlds pretty quickly and that is when the shock wears off and the sinking begins. The loss surrounding the death of a pet and the difficulty in coping with one's feelings of grief is very real. People who haven't the experience of loving and losing a pet may have a hard time understanding and give the impression that "it was just a cat". Such an attitude makes the person grieving feel "silly" or "guilty" or overreacting, which only adds to the pain and may interrupt the necessary stages of grief.

Our pets are a very real part of our families, not just another possession. Every time we give a piece of our hearts to something that unconditionally loves us back, our heart swells a bit more, leaving more to ache with each loss. The worst thing to do is to bottle things up inside and go into denial mode of your feelings. If you put up a wall to experiencing pain, you become a shell that tends to harden. Life will go on, but at some point something will trigger and that shell with crack, crumble and you fall apart.

Don't let anyone make you feel silly for being sad or emotional. You are not weak. You are a caring soul which is what being human is all about.

Don't get caught up in the self-blaming trap of "if only" or "I should have done...".  We do the best we can with the information we have and the circumstances life bestows upon us. At some point we have to accept "what is".  Animals don't torture themselves the way people do. They don't worry about things or regret past decisions and when it comes to illness, as long as they feel safe and loved, their passing is often very peaceful.

Surround yourself with people who are truly empathetic. Let yourself cry in front of those who care about you. It is very stress relieving, and you will feel better. A true friendship is when someone is willing to sit patiently as you cry and rant, without feeling the need to "solve anything". If need be, seek the support of pet loss groups.

Find a way to channel your sadness. Get involved at an animal shelter or start making regular donations to a cause that means a lot to you. Make a scrapbook of photos to commemorate your loss. To find some meaning in the whole experience is one way to avoid the feeling like you are drowning.




Below is an article taken from petmemorialworld
  "A large scale study of Cat  intestinal cancer reveals some interesting results that will not only benefit cats, but could also benefit humans down the road. The oncology department at the MU College of Veterinary Medicine conducted  the study on 1,129 cases of intestinal tumors in cats. The large sample was able to span 47 years of cancer and give some detailed results.
The most common intestinal cancers discovered in the cats were lymphoma (cancer of the immune system), and most of the cancers showed up in the small intestines.
The cat breed most at risk of intestinal cancer was the Siamese. With the most at risk group being the male Siamese aged 7 years or older.
As reported by http://www.sciencedaily.com, associate teaching professor Kim Selting reveals:

“This is important because there are very few population-based studies that allow us to evaluate cancer and risk factors on such a large scale,” Selting said. “Pet owners should be on the lookout for unexplained weight loss, vomiting and diarrhea, because these issues can be associated with intestinal cancer.”
Selting says that tracking animal cancer is important because animals share the environment with humans. By noting patterns of cancer development, doctors and veterinarians may become aware of environmental factors that could be causing tumor progression in different species, including humans. This is a fine example of helping animals ultimately benefiting humans. Let us hope that they are indeed able to find a cure for cancer in cats."

Mozart's final days

When asked if they regretted adopting an older pet, the answer is a definite no. The idea of older animals who once knew a loving home to find themselves alone at the end of their lives is heartbreaking. Even if only for a little while, these animals have a lot of life in them and love to share. All they ask for is a forever home.

A POEM FOR THE GRIEVING…

Do not stand at my grave and weep.
I am not there, I do not sleep.
I am a thousand winds that blow,
I am the diamond glints on snow.
I am the sunlight on ripened grain,
I am the gentle autumn’s rain.
When you awaken in the morning’s hush,
I am the swift uplifting rush
of quiet birds in circled flight.
I am the stars that shine at night.
Do not stand at my grave and cry,
I am not there, I did not die…

-Anonymous

 THE RAINBOW BRIDGE

There is a bridge connecting Heaven and Earth. It is called the Rainbow Bridge because of its many colours. Just this side of the Rainbow Bridge there is a land of meadows, hills and valleys with lush green grass.

When a beloved pet dies, the pet goes to this place. There is always food and water and warm spring weather. All the animals who have been ill and old are restored to health and vigour; those who were hurt or maimed are made whole and strong again, just as we remember them in our dreams of days and times gone by.

The animals are happy and content, except for one small thing; they each miss someone very special to them, who had to be left behind. They all run and play together, but the day comes when one suddenly stops and looks into the distance. Her bright eyes are intent; her eager body begins to quiver. Suddenly she begins to run from the group, flying over the green grass, her legs carrying her faster and faster.

You have been spotted, and when you and your special friend finally meet, you cling together in joyous reunion. The happy kisses rain upon your face; your hands again caress the beloved head, and you look once more into the trusting eyes of your pet, so long gone from your life but never absent from your heart.

Then you cross the Rainbow Bridge together, never again to be separated.

Author Unknown