Tuesday, May 17, 2016

A Stray Dog Found You, Now What...

Contributing Post by: Aleka Smith


Sandstone Falls, the largest waterfall on the New River Gorge, spans 1500 feet wide and is a huge attraction among local West Virginians and tourists alike. The falls are stunning, the boardwalk walkway suitable for those who want an easy tread, and the atmosphere perfect for a day out. The location, however, is ideal for animal abandonment due to its middle-of-nowhere location.

On Saturday, May 14th, I took one of my best friends there to walk my own dogs and show her some of the beauty in this state I now call home. Upon our arrival, we noticed two female dogs, obviously pregnant or at least recently had given birth, lying in the parking lot chewing on sticks. My first thought was, “those dogs better not have been abandoned.” Well, we soon realized they were.

 


One, a stunning older black mix, was injured and struggling to walk. The other, a tan possibly Shar Pei, had a severe case of mange, a serious skin condition caused by parasitic mites. Mange is highly contagious to other dogs. It was evident both dogs hadn’t been well cared for in a long time. I had taken my own dogs out of the car and proceeded on our walk, only to realize these two stray dogs were tagging along behind us.  We turned back and put my dogs back into the car, upon which the black dog jumped right along in with them. Not knowing how any of the dogs would react to each other and concerned about exposing my dogs to the mange, we got her back out of the car and began what would become a three hour ordeal to get some help.

Between phone calls to a non-emergency line, the local humane society, park rangers, and an on-call Animal Control Officer (hereby referred to as ACO), both pups were finally rescued on that chilly Saturday and taken to the local no-kill shelter for medical evaluation. Later that day I contacted the humane society and although the dogs required a great deal of medical treatment, they were thankfully safe.

I am grateful for not only an iPhone where I could use the 4G Internet, but also an area where I had service. Not many places in the back woods of West Virginia have cell phone service. I am also fortunate enough to have friends who provided me with important numbers to try and get these dogs saved and a best friend who sat beside me in my car for three hours to keep me calm.

Here a few tips to keep in mind if you come upon a stray animal wandering in an area:
Consider your options to either get involved yourself in handling the animal(s) or to call for assistance.

1) You do not know the temperament or health of the animal you have stumbled upon. If you have pets, have them keep their distance and try to not let them near the stray animal. I was fortunate the two I came across were friendly, but if they weren’t, it could have escalated into a dogfight situation I may not have been able to control. Also, if the dog with mange got in contact with my dogs, I may have ended up with a serious case of mange in my house, costing me my wallet at the vet and constant worry over their health.

2) Keep treats, a leash and gloves in your car AT ALL TIMES. It would be a good idea to keep a cat carrier in the car as well. Not all lost or abandoned animals are dogs.
Thanks to those goodies, I was able to help the ACO lure the dogs into his vehicle for safe traveling. Those two dogs were obviously very wary of men, and without the use of treats to gain their trust it could have taken even longer to get them to safety.

3) Use your resources:
Make a note of contact numbers and non-emergency numbers for the areas you frequently visit, and keep them stored on your phone as well as written on an actual piece of paper and kept in the glove box. Without cell service your phone’s contact list won’t be of much use.

4) Know your county’s rules and regulations:
 I could not have taken those dogs to the local humane society because I was not a resident of that county. I could only take them to my county’s humane society, which I would have done if I didn’t have my dogs in the backseat. Many counties restrict who can drop off animals and time frames to do so.

Rabies regulations have to be enforced and every county has its rules. So unless you are willing to transport the stray back to your own local shelter, you’ll need to find someone who can help. Hopefully, someone from that area can transport the animal to the closest shelter or perhaps even keep them for the night just to get them out of weather.

5) Report a stray animal.
Although the animal may not appear dangerous, don’t assume you can predict how a scared, injured animal will react. You don’t want to put yourself or any pets you may have with you at risk. Should the situation call for a hands off approach, call for assistance and wait for help to come. Don’t just call and leave, try to keep an eye on the animal and use treats to keep it nearby.

6) Know if an ACO (Animal Control Officer) is on duty 24/7 or if only 5 days a week. An on-call ACO came that afternoon due to the dogs being in a public place and possibly being a threat to others. If no one would have deemed the situation an emergency, those dogs would have waited until Monday, where there is the hope a friendly citizen would have sought help.

7) DO NOT ASSUME ANOTHER PERSON IS GOING TO HELP. My friend and I witnessed at least 12 people walk by those dogs without a care in the world. The dogs were following people to their cars and getting doors shut in their faces. It was heartbreaking to witness. If you won’t help, who will?
Please, please don’t let your fears or unwillingness to take the time and get involved, result in your doing nothing in these situations. Animals cannot speak for themselves and to just assume someone else will come upon the animal and help is an assumption that may cost the stray dearly. It’s a very real possibility that a sick, injured or neglected animal that requires immediate medical attention would die if left alone without food or shelter.

A REMINDER FOR ALL 

8) Please spay and neuter your pets. Local humane societies often have voucher programs where pets can be fixed at a discounted rate. Help keep the population down by decreasing the puppies that are bred every day. Did you know that one female dog can produce up to 100 puppies in her lifetime and a male dog can father thousands? Do you know thousands of individuals who want puppies at any given time due to one male dog? I don’t, but I do know that the 2-4 million dogs who are euthanized in shelters every year will never get the forever homes they deserve.

9) Lastly, adopt, don’t shop. Do your research into puppy mills and the horror of the industry. Realize that puppy auctions do exist and females are bred over and over again just to produce the cute puppies sold in pet stores at a price that could rescue multiple animals at a humane society. An animal is a forever friend, not a possession that can be discarded when it’s no longer wanted.


This article was not meant as a lecture, but rather an informative piece for those who don’t know the animal welfare system. I hope you learned something, and I encourage you to ask questions, get involved in your community (whether that’s a humane society, rescue group, or by adopting your next pet), and stand up for those who need us to be their voice. Thank you.




Friday, April 8, 2016

Feline Pheromones for Fear




Fear of the unknown and the insecurity of one's welfare can be terrifying for anyone, be it animal or human. By the time a cat or dog helplessly watches the cage door close within the confines of a shelter, the fight or flight impulse combined with no means for escape must be paralyzing. Only after any of us can feel safe do we then seek to satisfy other basic needs such as rest and hunger. Only after those needs are met can we rise to the next level and come out of our protective shell in search of trust and desire for love.

Depending on the nature of the animal and the physical or psychological trauma he or she went through, this process may be deep seated and take a lot of patience on the part of the caretakers. When people go to a shelter in search of a new pet up for adoption, they usually notice the ones that put themselves in the "notice me" category. The fearful ones hiding in the back of the cage are often summed up as feral or not the lap cat so desired.

Little Bella was such a case.

Her background was unknown to us and all we knew was that she was pregnant when she was picked up, estimated to be around 4 years of age, and needed to be spayed before she was put up for adoption.

She wasn't feral, rather she was very quiet and timid. She was so quiet during the car ride home that we kept checking on her to make sure she was alright. Some cats go ballistic inside the confines of the cat carrier, cry and even mess themselves. Little Bella just crouched silently.

The use of Rescue Remedy, a blend of five different Bach's Flower Remedies, for shock, stress and fear, did wonders to help with her adjustment to her new home and other pets. But fast forward six months and she still wanted nothing to do with my husband. We'll never know what experiences she had with men, but it was obvious she had some negative association with their size, deep voice and approach.

I discovered Feliway during a veterinarian visit for one of our other cats. The office had just hired a new veterinarian who turned out to be a dream of an animal doctor. Her approach to her new patient was calm and slow, a soft, soothing voice, surrounded by calm music and a hand offering little cat treats. Her methods worked like a charm and my cat melted to her touch. My admiration turned to amazement when she showed me her secret, a bottle of feline pheromone spray called Feliway. 
Feliway
Pheromones are a type of chemical communication between members of a species. They are produced from glands located around the mouth, nose, forehead and cheeks. Cats mark familiar objects, people and other pets by rubbing their face against these surfaces. It is a way of sending messages. So when your cat rubs against you, take it as a sign that he trusts and adores you and is telling you he feels safe and secure.

Feliway mimics a cat's F3 facial pheromones. These synthetic pheromone products are ideal alternatives for pet owners and veterinarians who would rather not use drugs to treat a stressed animal. The stress of traveling in a car, trips to the veterinarian and meeting new faces, can all be relieved with a spritz of a pheromones spray. Pheromones are also recommended to help with marking or spraying and aggression problems between cats in the same home. Even behavior problems like scratching on furniture can be helped. Anxiety is often the root cause of behavior issues with our pets and a help to relieve that is the place to start. But we also have to understand that when there is more involved with underlying problems, those issues need to be addressed. Behavior modification may still be needed.

Feliway can be used as a periodic spritz onto your hands or clothes when handling a cat or the cat carrier when traveling. Don't spray right onto the animal itself. However, for situations such as tension between the pets in the household or adjusting to a new environment, the diffusor method is best. This is a device that gets plugged into the wall and uses cartridges that stay in 24/7 and get changed monthly. There are no reports of any side effects and is safe to use however long it is needed. The pheromones are species specific, so they don't affect people or other types of pets in the home. If anything, the other cats will benefit as well. The Feliway site has more information and a video on how to use the diffuser.

There is also a pheromone product made for dogs called D.A.P (Dog Appeasing Pheromone). This mimics the pheromone nursing dogs release to comfort their puppies.



Amazing that we have gone from this timid, skittish little cat.....



.......to this.....with a little help from Feliway




Saturday, February 27, 2016

Is Your Dog a "LitterLips"?



As disgusting as it is, many dogs are going to be attracted to the treasures found in a cat's litter box.
Two questions pet owners ask are: Why do they do it and How can it be stopped.
There is actually a name for this habit, coprophagia.

The reasons for it vary:
Dogs may have learned this behavior from their mothers.
A mother dog will lick her pup to stimulate bowel and bladder function. Then in order to keep her nesting area sanitary she cleans up after the elimination.
In the wild, wolves and coyotes will eat poop if hungry enough since they do get some nutritional value from it.

Some dogs do it just because they know it'll get them immediate attention, even if it is negative. It's almost like a game to see if they can sneak and get away with it. With their keen sense of smell they may know the cat paid a visit to the litter box before we smell anything.

Our hound dog is notorious for sniffing around the litter boxes. He even earned the nickname "LitterLips" when once he came over to my husband to say hello and a "tootsie roll" fell out of those floppy lips.










Dogs with anxiety may develop coprophagia. Don't yell or hit your dog if you catch him in the act. Make sure your dog knows the "leave it" or "drop it" command and distract them.
To punish him may just make the anxiety ridden behavior worse.

Parasites such as hookworms, roundworms, giardia, coccidia, and whipworm are a risk with ingesting poop. One reason yearly check-ups should always include stool samples for parasites.

A covered litter box is a solution as long as the dog doesn't figure out how to knock the top off. We have a domed litter box in the room our dogs have access too and use a bungee cord to prevent his prying. One hook goes under the lip on one side, then goes under the handle on the top so it doesn't slide off the domed sides, and the other hook catches under the lip on the other side.
Of course, the most obvious solution is to just keep the litter boxes in a room where the dogs aren't allowed to go.

This post is a genius idea from the site, www.instructables.com

All steps are included for making your own Dog Proof Cat Litter Box.



You could probably make one of these for under $20.
Materials needed are:

30 gallon storage tub
18 gallon storage tub
(Same type just different sizes so one fits into the other)
11/2 hole saw and drill
Jigsaw
Scrap pieces of wood
4 wood screws
small pieces of mat or carpet


two tubs


holes in lid for some light

view inside from the entrance
Notice the gap between the entrance and the actual litter box used? Enough to keep prying noses or paws out of there. It looks like he used those foam puzzle pieces for his entry flooring.
Cleaning looks easy since you just take off the lid for access.

This is definitely a fun weekend DIY project. 
Just shows what a little creativity, imagination and understanding of pet behavior can do. 
Now as long as your cat uses the thing your problems are solved.

This contraption would also work to help keep the curious, prying fingers of toddlers out of there. The litter box is certainly not a sandbox even if the child thinks otherwise.






Saturday, February 13, 2016

Coexisting with Skunks





Those of you who have had the unfortunate acquaintance with a skunk can relate to the panic of what to do now right after the terrified creature runs off leaving you standing there in shock. Or you can stand there in shock disbelieving what you're looking at when your dog runs to the door with his latest "gift" for you.

Usually these things happen at the most inconvenient times, as if its ever convenient, but skunks are usually out and about around dusk or dawn. That time of day when we're either on our way out the door or tired at the end of a busy day and just can't handle another crisis.

The last thing you want is to have that horrendous smell permeate throughout your home.
Should you get sprayed outside, don't make the mistake of going into the house before stripping down your clothes.
Skunk spray is naturally oily and it'll get onto anything you touch and is hard to remove, so don't touch furniture or anyone else. Also, don't touch your face, you don't want the stuff near your eyes.

Leave your clothes outside for now and take a shower with the hottest water you can stand.

To clean your clothes:
Wash all items twice using hot water and a good detergent.
Don't put the clothes in the dryer! Hang outside to dry.

To clean your house:
Open the windows and turn on a fan. Fresh air is the most effective remedy to air out the house.
Hang the smaller rugs that you can handle outside.
Once the deed is done be sure to change the air filters in your home.
Now for the best tips of all, Apple Cider Vinegar and Baking Soda
Place vinegar is small bowls around the house and it will absorb the odors. Give them a day or two before removing the vinegar.
To remove odor from your carpets, sprinkle baking soda over your rugs and carpets and let sit for a few hours before vacuuming.

You can use bleach to neutralize the smell from any wood or concrete items in your home. Just keep in mind bleach may discolor whatever it is you're cleaning:
1 cup Bleach
1 gallon Water
Put on rubber gloves and use an old rag to dip in the solution.
Be sure to use this mixture in a well ventilated area. Do not mix ammonia with bleach.

To clean your dog:
Tomato juice will work and so does a product called Skunk Off.
But this homemade recipe is a keeper and most likely you'll already have the ingredients on hand:

Mix together in a large bucket:
1 quart Hydrogen Peroxide
1/2 cup Baking Soda
1 tsp. liquid laundry soap or dish washing detergent

The first two ingredients form an alkaline peroxide that chemically changes the skunk spray into an odorless chemical. The soap breaks down the oily skunk essence. This formula is harmless to humans and pets. It is normal that it will bubble and foam. Use immediately after mixing. Don't store it in a closed container as it will expand and burst the container.
Wearing latex or rubber gloves, bathe your dog outside if possible.
Take the time to work the mixture down through the fur, but keep out of the dog's face and eyes.
Let it sit on the fur for ten minutes before rinsing thoroughly with fresh water.

Be sure your dog is up to date on his/her rabies vaccine. See your vet if there is any sign of injury.

Now why do skunks spray in the first place?
Most mammals have anal scent glands or sacs. When stressed, fearful or trying to ward off predators, these scent glands give off pungent aromas as a form of defense.
Skunks have two glands inside the anus. Each gland contains small amounts of an oily, yellow liquid that is secreted through a nipple-like protrusion just outside the anus. The odor is because this secretion contains sulphur compounds such as thiols and their acetate derivatives.

Skunks really are docile, non-aggressive misunderstood animals. What gets them into trouble is that being they are very near-sighted, they spook easily and the only defense they have is their spray, Their limited vision is why they become such easy prey to dogs.








Sunday, February 7, 2016

Kitty Cat Grass Grazing



Anyone with house cats knows what a challenge it is to enjoy both your love of cats and your love of plants. Personally, I've given up and my plants are either hanging or kept in a room the cats aren't allowed. If the kitties weren't using the plant pots as a litter box they were constantly either nibbling at the leaves or turning the plant itself into a cat bed.

So as a pet owner who tries to understand the whys of their behavior rather than just be yelling at them, the reality is, is that cats love to be close to nature just as humans do. They not only enjoy the taste of nibbling on grass, but simply enjoy the smells and feel of fresh greens.

We have to remember that in the wild the first part of the prey predators eat is the stomach and intestinal contents.  Carnivorous animals receive lots of nutrients  needed for their good health. Grasses not only contain necessary fiber for good digestion, but also the benefits of chlorophyll.

So I think cats eat grass for three reasons. They receive nutrition that may be lacking in their usual diet. Eating grass tends to make them vomit which is their way of dealing with a tummy ache and hairballs. And the fact remains that they just may love the taste.

Grass is mainly fiber and being a cat's stomach doesn't have the enzymes needed to digest it, the body induces regurgitation. Now to think like a cat there is good reason for a way to bring back up undigested stomach contents. If you ever watch a cat eat a bird or a rodent it really has no choice but to simply eat the whole thing, bones, fur, feathers and all. The body has no need for certain parts so to bring bones and hair back up, it is nature's way of preventing intestinal damage from the bones or intestinal blockages from hair balls.

Any cat owner knows how fastidious cats can be with their grooming. Unless you are diligent and periodically use a grooming tool such as a furminator to help with shedding, your cat is going to be swallowing cat hair on a daily basis. If you have a cat in the house you just have to accept the fact that you're going to occasionally be dealing with cat vomit. Of course no one looks forward to cleaning up that wet pile of mystery contents nor the fight against the inevitable yellow stains that could spot your carpet or rugs. But no one wants the risk and cost of an intestinal blockage either. So don't make the mistake of not allowing your cat access to cat grass in trying to prevent any vomiting. With nothing to snack on, your cat will turn to your plants and since so many houseplants can be toxic, that is a risk too.

To grow your own cat grass you will need the following:

1.  Small pots
You should have more than one pot of grass growing so you can rotate. Cat grass isn't seeded once and be expected to grow and last very long. Between the cats' grazing, pulling it out of the ground, trying to lay in it, the grass eventually turns brown and falls over. So have more than one growing so you can rotate the pots and have a continuous supply to offer your kitties.
Don't bother using big trays. It'll look nice for a day but soon become a flattened mess from your cat laying and crushing the grass.

2. Organic potting soil
Get good quality potting soil such as Happy Frog. You don't need the risk of your cat ingesting fertilizers, pesticides or herbicides that may be in ordinary soil.

3. Cat grass seed
Wheat, oat, rye or barley seeds are the usual but wheat and oats are the most common. You can buy the seed already labeled as cat grass seed but to save money go to a natural food store that offers bulk raw seed. As long as you keep the seed dry and out of the sun it should stay viable for a few years.

4. Plastic wrap
Grass needs moisture and warmth to germinate. By lightly covering your pot with plastic wrap it increase and speed up the germination rate of the seed. Once the seeds have sprouted you do have to remove the plastic or your pot will mold.

5. Spray bottle with water
The seed has to be kept lightly moistened until germination so it is handy to daily mist the soil surface until the seeds sprout. To just water the whole thing increases the chance the seed will be too wet and not sprout at all. Once the plastic is removed you can water as you normally would.

Steps:
Fill your pots with the soil up to 1-2 inches from the top.
Sprinkle a thin, even layer of seed over the surface.
Cover with about 1/4 inch of soil.
Wet the surface but not to drench.
Cover the pot with plastic wrap.
Put the pots in a dark, warm area. The top of a fridge is a good spot.
Check daily for signs of sprouting, mist if the soil appears dry.
After a few days you'll see signs of seed germination.
Keep the plastic on until the grass is an inch or two high.
Remove the plastic and place the pots in a sunny location.
Once the grass reaches 4-6 inches in height and established, you can offer it to your cats.
If you give them access too soon the roots won't be anchored yet and pull out too easily.
Put the pot on a tray or somewhere you won't mind a little mess. There is a good chance you'll find some grass and dirt outside of the pot.

Cleaning up vomit stains:

Remove the solids and blot blot blot the excess moisture. Don't rub, blot!
Sprinkle baking soda on the area to neutralize the acids and absorb any remaining liquid.
Let the baking soda dry, then vacuum it up.
Follow with a splash of club soda if any stains remain and blot it up.
Remember, don't scrub it while it is wet or the stain may be driven deeper into the carpet fibers.

If you notice your cat actually binging on grass there may be something wrong so it may be best to pay a visit to your veterinarian.




If you do let your cats outside try to keep their wandering limited in order to not only keep them off the road but to be sure they aren't snacking on grass areas that had been sprayed with herbicide or pesticide.


The ultimate in cat greens pleasure is catnip. Catnip is in the mint family so doesn't make a very good houseplant but can easily be grown outside during the summer. If just planted it will return wherever it pleases so unless that doesn't matter to you, be sure to plant it in pots. Catnip is easy to cut and dry so  that you'll have plenty to offer your indoor cats. Here is a good post on the subject of catnip.




 

Friday, January 22, 2016

Pet Paw Winter Protection


At the first hint of an approaching snowfall, the salt and cinder trucks are on the move. Homeowners are also stocked up on rock salts and ice melts to make walking less treacherous.

Rock salts and ice melts lower the freezing point of water, so it prevents the ice from forming. When spread on ice already on the ground, it breaks it up and makes it melt. When the salt penetrates the ice it forms a solution of salt and water called brine. Brine has a lower freezing point than water so the ice begins to melt.

The real name for rock salt is Halite, which is the mineral form of sodium chloride. Rock salt can lower the freezing point down to 25 degrees Fahrenheit so is best used in areas that don't deal with extremely low temperatures. In areas where the temperature fluctuates above and below 25 degrees, the freeze and melt cycle can cause concrete and blacktop surfaces to crack.

Ice Melt varieties include calcium chloride, magnesium chloride, sodium chloride and potassium chloride. Calcium chloride is the most effective in very cold climates. It can bring the freezing point of water down to minus 25 degrees Fahrenheit. Not only does it form a brine but it also generates heat which speeds up the melting process. Potassium chloride is the exception that won't work in colder temperatures than rock salt.

The problem with all these melts is that they can harm our pets. Dogs and cats pick up these salts on their paws which can cause internal and external problems. The pet either licks at the salts that stick to foot pads or once inside the salts melt and then when the pet licks at their feet they can suffer burns to their mouths and/or digestive systems. Those salts can heat up to 175 degrees once they start melting.

The best alternative is to purchase what is called Safe Paw. 
It is safe for pets, children, all surfaces and the environment. It doesn't contain salt at all, nor does it give off any heat to melt the ice. It is made up of crystalline amide core infused with glycols. It is a two way timed-release action. The liquid component starts melting the ice at first contact to break the surface tension. This allows the crystal-core to penetrate and destabilize the ice which begins the melting process. Safe Paw attracts heat but does not give off heat. This is called an endothermic reaction which takes advantage of the sun's solar effects. This product works down to two degrees below zero and doesn't contain the damaging residuals of rock salt so damaging to lawns, plants and water supplies. Last, Safe Paw also leaves an invisible shield that prevents ice from sticking to the surface for up to three days. This feature makes life a lot easier for those who need to do the shoveling.

Be sure to get Safe Paw and not a cheaper knock-off version. The true formula is patent protected so to be sure your beloved pets are safe, get the real thing.

Safe Paw Ice Melter is available at pet and hardware stores and comes in 8 pound and 35 pound pails. The basic retail cost is $20 for the 8 pound jug and $65 for the 35 pound jug.

Since you don't know what other people are using, be sure to wipe your pet's feet when you come in from a walk.
Paw Waxes are ideal to further protect your pet's paw pads from ice, salt, snow and grit. Apply to the bottoms of your dog's feet before heading outdoors and it helps form a barrier between the elements and the paw pads. Also helps heal and moisturize any existing abrasions or cuts.

Pet Paw Pad Protection





Monday, December 7, 2015

Living with a Toddler Dog

"I'm Sorry"

"All I want for Christmas is for my Daddy to forgive me one more time. This'll be the last time I promise. I'm sorry for getting to your favorite Grateful Dead hat, your keyboard, your camera, the phone, your wallet, your shoes........ And Mommy did rescue some of that stuff....."

Now in defense of this toddler dog.

Who is the toddler, the dog who hopefully will eventually think a bit before grabbing anything that smells like my husband? Or my husband who hopefully will eventually think to put his stuff away?

My kids had been well trained years ago when we had another set of young dogs that you can't just blame the dog's existence for the demise of their belongings. Things have a place and should be put back in that place. Or at least leave them lay in the areas where the dog isn't allowed.

Yes there are many times when even I am tired of this dog. But we adopted him and made a promise to love him through thick and thin. My kids were annoying at times too, but I certainly wouldn't send them packing. This dog is still under two years old and every dog I've ever had took about five years to really settle down and be able to harness their own high energy.

As Christmas approaches and so many people may be planning on adopting a puppy, please please please understand that your cute little arrival is a baby!! Remember that a dog's mouth is as a child's hands. As kids learn by touching everything, dogs learn by mouthing everything. As he grows he'll be learning with everything he sees, smells, touches, tastes and destroys. Please childproof your home and make necessary changes and adjustments not only to your home but with your own habits.

Don't dangle the carrot and then punish the dog for getting into what he shouldn't!

Don't expect the dog to think like a person!

Don't expect him to know what is expensive or treasured!

If something is off limits don't leave it within reach. If it is something that belongs in a room the dog has access to, then realize you'll have to supervise until the dog learns what is 'no touch'. And don't teach him that by scaring the bejeebies out of him through yelling. The dog will back off for sure but it is doubtful he'll connect your anger with the object. And never never never hit your dog!
The best way is to teach him the command for 'drop' in a calm, authoritative voice and distract him with an object they are allowed to chew on.

Remember, dogs want nothing more than to please you!

So, my dear husband, remember as we did with every developmental stage when the kids were small.."This too shall pass".