Coexisting with Skunks

Those of you who have had the unfortunate acquaintance with a skunk can relate to the panic of what to do now right after the terrified creature runs off leaving you standing there in shock. Or you can stand there in shock disbelieving what you're looking at when your dog runs to the door with his latest "gift" for you.

Usually these things happen at the most inconvenient times, as if its ever convenient, but skunks are usually out and about around dusk or dawn. That time of day when we're either on our way out the door or tired at the end of a busy day and just can't handle another crisis.

The last thing you want is to have that horrendous smell permeate throughout your home.
Should you get sprayed outside, don't make the mistake of going into the house before stripping down your clothes.
Skunk spray is naturally oily and it'll get onto anything you touch and is hard to remove, so don't touch furniture or anyone else. Also, don't touch your face, you don't want the stuff near your eyes.

Leave your clothes outside for now and take a shower with the hottest water you can stand.

To clean your clothes:
Wash all items twice using hot water and a good detergent.
Don't put the clothes in the dryer! Hang outside to dry.

To clean your house:
Open the windows and turn on a fan. Fresh air is the most effective remedy to air out the house.
Hang the smaller rugs that you can handle outside.
Once the deed is done be sure to change the air filters in your home.
Now for the best tips of all, Apple Cider Vinegar and Baking Soda
Place vinegar is small bowls around the house and it will absorb the odors. Give them a day or two before removing the vinegar.
To remove odor from your carpets, sprinkle baking soda over your rugs and carpets and let sit for a few hours before vacuuming.

You can use bleach to neutralize the smell from any wood or concrete items in your home. Just keep in mind bleach may discolor whatever it is you're cleaning:
1 cup Bleach
1 gallon Water
Put on rubber gloves and use an old rag to dip in the solution.
Be sure to use this mixture in a well ventilated area. Do not mix ammonia with bleach.

To clean your dog:
Tomato juice will work and so does a product called Skunk Off.
But this homemade recipe is a keeper and most likely you'll already have the ingredients on hand:

Mix together in a large bucket:
1 quart Hydrogen Peroxide
1/2 cup Baking Soda
1 tsp. liquid laundry soap or dish washing detergent

The first two ingredients form an alkaline peroxide that chemically changes the skunk spray into an odorless chemical. The soap breaks down the oily skunk essence. This formula is harmless to humans and pets. It is normal that it will bubble and foam. Use immediately after mixing. Don't store it in a closed container as it will expand and burst the container.
Wearing latex or rubber gloves, bathe your dog outside if possible.
Take the time to work the mixture down through the fur, but keep out of the dog's face and eyes.
Let it sit on the fur for ten minutes before rinsing thoroughly with fresh water.

Be sure your dog is up to date on his/her rabies vaccine. See your vet if there is any sign of injury.

Now why do skunks spray in the first place?
Most mammals have anal scent glands or sacs. When stressed, fearful or trying to ward off predators, these scent glands give off pungent aromas as a form of defense.
Skunks have two glands inside the anus. Each gland contains small amounts of an oily, yellow liquid that is secreted through a nipple-like protrusion just outside the anus. The odor is because this secretion contains sulphur compounds such as thiols and their acetate derivatives.

Skunks really are docile, non-aggressive misunderstood animals. What gets them into trouble is that being they are very near-sighted, they spook easily and the only defense they have is their spray, Their limited vision is why they become such easy prey to dogs.

Kitty Cat Grass Grazing

Anyone with house cats knows what a challenge it is to enjoy both your love of cats and your love of plants. Personally, I've given up and my plants are either hanging or kept in a room the cats aren't allowed. If the kitties weren't using the plant pots as a litter box they were constantly either nibbling at the leaves or turning the plant itself into a cat bed.

So as a pet owner who tries to understand the whys of their behavior rather than just be yelling at them, the reality is, is that cats love to be close to nature just as humans do. They not only enjoy the taste of nibbling on grass, but simply enjoy the smells and feel of fresh greens.

We have to remember that in the wild the first part of the prey predators eat is the stomach and intestinal contents.  Carnivorous animals receive lots of nutrients  needed for their good health. Grasses not only contain necessary fiber for good digestion, but also the benefits of chlorophyll.

So I think cats eat grass for three reasons. They receive nutrition that may be lacking in their usual diet. Eating grass tends to make them vomit which is their way of dealing with a tummy ache and hairballs. And the fact remains that they just may love the taste.

Grass is mainly fiber and being a cat's stomach doesn't have the enzymes needed to digest it, the body induces regurgitation. Now to think like a cat there is good reason for a way to bring back up undigested stomach contents. If you ever watch a cat eat a bird or a rodent it really has no choice but to simply eat the whole thing, bones, fur, feathers and all. The body has no need for certain parts so to bring bones and hair back up, it is nature's way of preventing intestinal damage from the bones or intestinal blockages from hair balls.

Any cat owner knows how fastidious cats can be with their grooming. Unless you are diligent and periodically use a grooming tool such as a furminator to help with shedding, your cat is going to be swallowing cat hair on a daily basis. If you have a cat in the house you just have to accept the fact that you're going to occasionally be dealing with cat vomit. Of course no one looks forward to cleaning up that wet pile of mystery contents nor the fight against the inevitable yellow stains that could spot your carpet or rugs. But no one wants the risk and cost of an intestinal blockage either. So don't make the mistake of not allowing your cat access to cat grass in trying to prevent any vomiting. With nothing to snack on, your cat will turn to your plants and since so many houseplants can be toxic, that is a risk too.

To grow your own cat grass you will need the following:

1.  Small pots
You should have more than one pot of grass growing so you can rotate. Cat grass isn't seeded once and be expected to grow and last very long. Between the cats' grazing, pulling it out of the ground, trying to lay in it, the grass eventually turns brown and falls over. So have more than one growing so you can rotate the pots and have a continuous supply to offer your kitties.
Don't bother using big trays. It'll look nice for a day but soon become a flattened mess from your cat laying and crushing the grass.

2. Organic potting soil
Get good quality potting soil such as Happy Frog. You don't need the risk of your cat ingesting fertilizers, pesticides or herbicides that may be in ordinary soil.

3. Cat grass seed
Wheat, oat, rye or barley seeds are the usual but wheat and oats are the most common. You can buy the seed already labeled as cat grass seed but to save money go to a natural food store that offers bulk raw seed. As long as you keep the seed dry and out of the sun it should stay viable for a few years.

4. Plastic wrap
Grass needs moisture and warmth to germinate. By lightly covering your pot with plastic wrap it increase and speed up the germination rate of the seed. Once the seeds have sprouted you do have to remove the plastic or your pot will mold.

5. Spray bottle with water
The seed has to be kept lightly moistened until germination so it is handy to daily mist the soil surface until the seeds sprout. To just water the whole thing increases the chance the seed will be too wet and not sprout at all. Once the plastic is removed you can water as you normally would.

Steps:
Fill your pots with the soil up to 1-2 inches from the top.
Sprinkle a thin, even layer of seed over the surface.
Cover with about 1/4 inch of soil.
Wet the surface but not to drench.
Cover the pot with plastic wrap.
Put the pots in a dark, warm area. The top of a fridge is a good spot.
Check daily for signs of sprouting, mist if the soil appears dry.
After a few days you'll see signs of seed germination.
Keep the plastic on until the grass is an inch or two high.
Remove the plastic and place the pots in a sunny location.
Once the grass reaches 4-6 inches in height and established, you can offer it to your cats.
If you give them access too soon the roots won't be anchored yet and pull out too easily.
Put the pot on a tray or somewhere you won't mind a little mess. There is a good chance you'll find some grass and dirt outside of the pot.

Cleaning up vomit stains:

Remove the solids and blot blot blot the excess moisture. Don't rub, blot!
Sprinkle baking soda on the area to neutralize the acids and absorb any remaining liquid.
Let the baking soda dry, then vacuum it up.
Follow with a splash of club soda if any stains remain and blot it up.
Remember, don't scrub it while it is wet or the stain may be driven deeper into the carpet fibers.

If you notice your cat actually binging on grass there may be something wrong so it may be best to pay a visit to your veterinarian.




If you do let your cats outside try to keep their wandering limited in order to not only keep them off the road but to be sure they aren't snacking on grass areas that had been sprayed with herbicide or pesticide.


The ultimate in cat greens pleasure is catnip. Catnip is in the mint family so doesn't make a very good houseplant but can easily be grown outside during the summer. If just planted it will return wherever it pleases so unless that doesn't matter to you, be sure to plant it in pots. Catnip is easy to cut and dry so  that you'll have plenty to offer your indoor cats. Here is a good post on the subject of catnip.

 

Pet Paw Winter Protection

At the first hint of an approaching snowfall, the salt and cinder trucks are on the move. Homeowners are also stocked up on rock salts and ice melts to make walking less treacherous.

Rock salts and ice melts lower the freezing point of water, so it prevents the ice from forming. When spread on ice already on the ground, it breaks it up and makes it melt. When the salt penetrates the ice it forms a solution of salt and water called brine. Brine has a lower freezing point than water so the ice begins to melt.

The real name for rock salt is Halite, which is the mineral form of sodium chloride. Rock salt can lower the freezing point down to 25 degrees Fahrenheit so is best used in areas that don't deal with extremely low temperatures. In areas where the temperature fluctuates above and below 25 degrees, the freeze and melt cycle can cause concrete and blacktop surfaces to crack.

Ice Melt varieties include calcium chloride, magnesium chloride, sodium chloride and potassium chloride. Calcium chloride is the most effective in very cold climates. It can bring the freezing point of water down to minus 25 degrees Fahrenheit. Not only does it form a brine but it also generates heat which speeds up the melting process. Potassium chloride is the exception that won't work in colder temperatures than rock salt.

The problem with all these melts is that they can harm our pets. Dogs and cats pick up these salts on their paws which can cause internal and external problems. The pet either licks at the salts that stick to foot pads or once inside the salts melt and then when the pet licks at their feet they can suffer burns to their mouths and/or digestive systems. Those salts can heat up to 175 degrees once they start melting.

The best alternative is to purchase what is called Safe Paw. 

It is safe for pets, children, all surfaces and the environment. It doesn't contain salt at all, nor does it give off any heat to melt the ice. It is made up of crystalline amide core infused with glycols. It is a two way timed-release action. The liquid component starts melting the ice at first contact to break the surface tension. This allows the crystal-core to penetrate and destabilize the ice which begins the melting process. Safe Paw attracts heat but does not give off heat. This is called an endothermic reaction which takes advantage of the sun's solar effects. This product works down to two degrees below zero and doesn't contain the damaging residuals of rock salt so damaging to lawns, plants and water supplies. Last, Safe Paw also leaves an invisible shield that prevents ice from sticking to the surface for up to three days. This feature makes life a lot easier for those who need to do the shoveling.

Be sure to get Safe Paw and not a cheaper knock-off version. The true formula is patent protected so to be sure your beloved pets are safe, get the real thing.

Safe Paw Ice Melter is available at pet and hardware stores and comes in 8 pound and 35 pound pails. The basic retail cost is $20 for the 8 pound jug and $65 for the 35 pound jug.

Since you don't know what other people are using, be sure to wipe your pet's feet when you come in from a walk.
Paw Waxes are ideal to further protect your pet's paw pads from ice, salt, snow and grit. Apply to the bottoms of your dog's feet before heading outdoors and it helps form a barrier between the elements and the paw pads. Also helps heal and moisturize any existing abrasions or cuts.

Pet Paw Pad Protection

Living with a Toddler Dog

"I'm Sorry"

"All I want for Christmas is for my Daddy to forgive me one more time. This'll be the last time I promise. I'm sorry for getting to your favorite Grateful Dead hat, your keyboard, your camera, the phone, your wallet, your shoes........ And Mommy did rescue some of that stuff....."

Now in defense of this toddler dog.

Who is the toddler, the dog who hopefully will eventually think a bit before grabbing anything that smells like my husband? Or my husband who hopefully will eventually think to put his stuff away?

My kids had been well trained years ago when we had another set of young dogs that you can't just blame the dog's existence for the demise of their belongings. Things have a place and should be put back in that place. Or at least leave them lay in the areas where the dog isn't allowed.

Yes there are many times when even I am tired of this dog. But we adopted him and made a promise to love him through thick and thin. My kids were annoying at times too, but I certainly wouldn't send them packing. This dog is still under two years old and every dog I've ever had took about five years to really settle down and be able to harness their own high energy.

As Christmas approaches and so many people may be planning on adopting a puppy, please please please understand that your cute little arrival is a baby!! Remember that a dog's mouth is as a child's hands. As kids learn by touching everything, dogs learn by mouthing everything. As he grows he'll be learning with everything he sees, smells, touches, tastes and destroys. Please childproof your home and make necessary changes and adjustments not only to your home but with your own habits.

Don't dangle the carrot and then punish the dog for getting into what he shouldn't!

Don't expect the dog to think like a person!

Don't expect him to know what is expensive or treasured!

If something is off limits don't leave it within reach. If it is something that belongs in a room the dog has access to, then realize you'll have to supervise until the dog learns what is 'no touch'. And don't teach him that by scaring the bejeebies out of him through yelling. The dog will back off for sure but it is doubtful he'll connect your anger with the object. And never never never hit your dog!
The best way is to teach him the command for 'drop' in a calm, authoritative voice and distract him with an object they are allowed to chew on.

Remember, dogs want nothing more than to please you!

So, my dear husband, remember as we did with every developmental stage when the kids were small.."This too shall pass".

Cats and Halloween, Debunk the Stigma

The stigma surrounding cats, especially black cats, has long been associated with evil, black magic, witchcraft and superstition. Believers in the metaphysical often use caution around a number of things that are said to bring bad luck, and a black cat crossing their path is one of them.

These negative associations go back centuries, all the way back to Greek mythology.
In Ovid's tale, Galinthias was one of the servants of the mother of Hercules, Alcmene, and her attempts to help got her into quite the predicament.
Alcmene was the wife of Amphitryon. Zeus disguised himself as Amphitryon in order to have relations with Alcmene and she became pregnant. Zeus's wife, Hera, became furious and tried to prevent the birth. Galinthias got involved by playing a trick on Hera which enabled Alcmene to successfully give birth to Hercules. Hera took her revenge on Galinthias by turning her into a cat and sending her to the underworld. She was to act as a priestess of Hecate, the goddess of death and the queen of witches. Because of the connection with Hecate, black cats were then thought to be an omen of death and associated with witchcraft.

The word for 'the fear of cats' is ailurophobia. This came from the name Ailuros, which was the Greek name for the ancient Egyptian goddess Bast. The Greeks saw Bast as a version of their lunar goddess Artemis. It was said that Artemis turned herself into a cat in order to escape the god of wind, Typhon,

During the Middle Ages, superstitions around black magic were abundant, and black cats were targeted. Pope Gregory XI had published the "Vox in Rama" document in 1233 to deal with the subject of devil worship. He claimed that black cats were the incarnation of Satan, therefore, throughout the next century black cats were slaughtered.
Interesting is that with the killing of cats, the rodent population escalated which helped spread the bubonic plague during the 14th century killing millions of people. Pope Gregory may have been long dead by then but superstitions stick and even to this day people associate cats with scorcery.
During the witch hunt era, 1450 to 1750, black cats were seen as being such evil companions to their "witches" that they were burned in baskets alongside their owners.

The trend of labeling black cats as evil came to the United States with the Pilgrims in the Plymouth colony. The Puritan Pilgrims distrusted anything associated with sorcery and actively persecuted black cats just for being the color black. It became a practice to burn black cats on Shrove Tuesday to protect the home from fire. 

As time passed and this practice died down, black cats had become part of all the legends behind witches. As the celebration of Halloween became more commercial, black cats became part of the usual Halloween decorations. The bristled fur, claws and green eyes just added to the desired spooky effect.

Animal shelters are very aware of the concern with people wanting to adopt cats around Halloween just to use them in satanic rituals or sadistic pranks. Back in the 1980's and 90's there were restrictions on adoptions in the weeks leading up to Halloween. Today those concerns are still present, however, due to the need for homes with the abundance of cats in shelters, those bans are no longer in place. Adopting black animals in October has even become a promotional tactic to increase awareness of the need for homes for these pets.

The kitty pictured above may look terrifying, but in reality she is just our Bella letting me know she is hungry!

Homemade & Healthy Flea Repelling Dog Treats

Flea season can be exasperating for both pet owners and their pets. We can apply flea and tick preventatives on our dogs, we can vacuum our homes, wash the pet bedding regularly, and yet every time we open our door to the great outdoors those little pests are lurking to hitch a ride back inside.

The diet can have an influence on just how attractive those fleas find our pets. By adding ingredients such as brewer's or nutritional yeast and garlic, we can help our pets to be a bit less appealing to biting, blood sucking fleas.

Bake*A*Bone is a wonderful kitchen gadget that will make the process of homemade treats so much less of a hassle. There is no rolling out the dough or cutting with cookie cutters, both of which can be fun, but realistically, in any given busy week, I for one just never got it done. But using a Bake*A*Bone grill is so much less messy and saves money by not having to heat up the oven.



Below are two sources to find this little grill online. It'll cost about $24.00 and makes for a wonderful Holiday Gift Idea for an animal lover.

Bake*A*Bone from Amazon

Bake*A*Bone from Coupaws
Coupaws is a site of great deals and every purchase provides six meals to pets in need.

Included with the grill is a little book full of delicious recipes made up of wholesome, healthy ingredients. No preservatives, no added coloring or flavoring, no chemicals period. Just good for your dog foods that are great supplements and add variety to their ordinary diet.

Here is a recipe not included in the book. It is a treat that acts as a natural flea repellent.

FLEA-BE-GONE DOG BISCUITS (from the 2015 edition of the Farmer's Almanac)

3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 tablespoon garlic powder
2 cups flour of choice
1/2 cup wheat germ
1/2 cup brewer's or nutritional yeast
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup chicken broth

Directions:

Stir the vegetable oil and garlic powder together in a mixing bowl.
In another larger bowl, mix the remaining ingredients.
Slowly add the oil and garlic mixture to the dry ingredients followed by the chicken broth.
Mix thoroughly until you get a doughy consistency.

Follow the directions that come with the Bake*A*Bone to bake your treats. The grill makes four at a time and each batch will take about 10 minutes baking time. Being the dough is thick it is easier to just add a small blob to the bone indentation and not worry so much about how perfect each one looks. If you want perfectly shaped bone shapes, you can pinch off the excess once they are baked.



To make these without a grill:
Roll dough onto a floured surface to about 1/4 inch thick.
Use a knife to cut dough into squares or use cookie cutters to make shapes.
Place cut dough onto a large, ungreased baking sheet.
Bake at 350 degrees F for 20 to 25 minutes or until edges are brown.
Allow the treats to cool completely and then store in plastic bags or tight containers.

The biggest challenge is setting a limit on how many of these your dog gets in a day. My dogs love them to the point I could be offering them far too often than I normally would just because I know how healthy they are.

Another great perk with these treats is that there is no crumbly mess left behind as there so often is with the typical dog bones. If you want them crunchier, the book says to preheat your oven to 350 degrees, place the baked treats on a cookie sheets and put into the preheated oven. Then turn off the oven and just let the treats sit in the turned off oven for 4-6 hours to dry out.

These dog bones will probably get eaten up before you have to worry about spoilage, but they can be kept in the refrigerator in an airtight container for longer storage.

Mystery of Homeopathy...Coincidence..or Not

Our black cat, Taylor, is a prime example of an animal's fighting spirit and the will to live. He is pictured with his brother, Fender, who both came as a package deal.
It was only days before Halloween, five years ago, and we believe Taylor was clipped by a car. My husband just happened to return home probably soon after it happened because he discovered the cat flipping around in our driveway.
Fearing the worst what could he do but bring him inside so at least he wouldn't die alone out in the cold of the night. I've always been intrigued with the alternative therapy known as homeopathy. Its one of those things that if you hit it right with the correct remedy you are amazed, and wonder if it was just coincidence since it is so hard to really understand why this method of healing works.

It was obvious this cat was probably going to die of shock so I aimed to take care of the most acute problem first. Rescue Remedy is a combination of five Bach flower remedies: Impatience, Clematis, Rock Rose, Cherry Plum and Star of Bethlehem. These remedies are for traumatic stress and terror.
Taylor had classic signs of shock such as glazed eyes, pupils different in dilation, irregular breathing, and bodily shaking. I spent that entire night keeping him swaddled and warm. Four drops of Rescue Remedy was given every fifteen minutes for about two hours until he seemed to calm down and his breathing slowed to a more normal rate. (A bottle of Rescue Remedy should be kept on hand for many an emergency be it people or pets. Giving a dose every 15 minutes en route to either the vet or a doctor can make all the difference when there is fear, panic or possibility of shock.)

By morning he was still with us and much more alert. The main concern now was that his body just sank to the ground. When he tried to walk he dragged himself with the right side of his body. Front and back legs worked but only on that one side. We figured if his back was broken both back legs would have been useless. If he was hit in the head he most likely wouldn't have survived at all.
It was concluded he was probably thrown and suffered a concussion and nerve trauma. So we were advised to give our Taylor the gift of time and see how his body responds as the inflammation decreases. As we often do with our pets, once we know what we are dealing with we take care of our own by utilizing what we know from both conventional medicine and alternative methods.

Another wonderful homeopathic remedy is St. Johnswort or Hypericum. This treatment is recommended for nerve injuries and trauma. We gave him the potency we had which was 30x, four times a day and just watched for change. What we were looking for was the hope that once there was a decrease in inflammation there would be signs of improvement.
Sure enough, within two days he could hold up his head. He tried in earnest to get himself to the litter box where one of us would then hold him up to do his business.
What a relief when he started to show an interest in food. He didn't seem to be in any pain so we made him comfortable and waited.

Within a month he tried to stand on wobbly legs but couldn't hold his weight. Another month and he could walk but stumbled and fell easily. By six months he mastered the coordination to once again be able to jump. That show of perseverance was a great lesson for all of us.

Now a few years later the only residual signs of damage are a slight cock to his head and a watery eye. A bit clumsy he has made himself more endearing than ever.
A creature of habit, every evening he follows us to our bedroom and settles in.
Interesting that it is usually those with special needs who hold such special places in our lives.

Did someone intentionally hit him because he is a black cat and it was Halloween?
We will always wonder.