Is Your Dog a "LitterLips"?

As disgusting as it is, many dogs are going to be attracted to the treasures found in a cat's litter box.
Two questions pet owners ask are: Why do they do it and How can it be stopped.
There is actually a name for this habit, coprophagia.

The reasons for it vary:
Dogs may have learned this behavior from their mothers.
A mother dog will lick her pup to stimulate bowel and bladder function. Then in order to keep her nesting area sanitary she cleans up after the elimination.
In the wild, wolves and coyotes will eat poop if hungry enough since they do get some nutritional value from it.

Some dogs do it just because they know it'll get them immediate attention, even if it is negative. It's almost like a game to see if they can sneak and get away with it. With their keen sense of smell they may know the cat paid a visit to the litter box before we smell anything.

Our hound dog is notorious for sniffing around the litter boxes. He even earned the nickname "LitterLips" when once he came over to my husband to say hello and a "tootsie roll" fell out of those floppy lips.










Dogs with anxiety may develop coprophagia. Don't yell or hit your dog if you catch him in the act. Make sure your dog knows the "leave it" or "drop it" command and distract them.
To punish him may just make the anxiety ridden behavior worse.

Parasites such as hookworms, roundworms, giardia, coccidia, and whipworm are a risk with ingesting poop. One reason yearly check-ups should always include stool samples for parasites.

A covered litter box is a solution as long as the dog doesn't figure out how to knock the top off. We have a domed litter box in the room our dogs have access too and use a bungee cord to prevent his prying. One hook goes under the lip on one side, then goes under the handle on the top so it doesn't slide off the domed sides, and the other hook catches under the lip on the other side.
Of course, the most obvious solution is to just keep the litter boxes in a room where the dogs aren't allowed to go.

This post is a genius idea from the site, www.instructables.com

All steps are included for making your own Dog Proof Cat Litter Box.

You could probably make one of these for under $20.
Materials needed are:

30 gallon storage tub
18 gallon storage tub
(Same type just different sizes so one fits into the other)
11/2 hole saw and drill
Jigsaw
Scrap pieces of wood
4 wood screws
small pieces of mat or carpet

two tubs

holes in lid for some light

view inside from the entrance

Notice the gap between the entrance and the actual litter box used? Enough to keep prying noses or paws out of there. It looks like he used those foam puzzle pieces for his entry flooring.

Cleaning looks easy since you just take off the lid for access.

This is definitely a fun weekend DIY project. 

Just shows what a little creativity, imagination and understanding of pet behavior can do. 

Now as long as your cat uses the thing your problems are solved.

This contraption would also work to help keep the curious, prying fingers of toddlers out of there. The litter box is certainly not a sandbox even if the child thinks otherwise.

Coexisting with Skunks

Those of you who have had the unfortunate acquaintance with a skunk can relate to the panic of what to do now right after the terrified creature runs off leaving you standing there in shock. Or you can stand there in shock disbelieving what you're looking at when your dog runs to the door with his latest "gift" for you.

Usually these things happen at the most inconvenient times, as if its ever convenient, but skunks are usually out and about around dusk or dawn. That time of day when we're either on our way out the door or tired at the end of a busy day and just can't handle another crisis.

The last thing you want is to have that horrendous smell permeate throughout your home.
Should you get sprayed outside, don't make the mistake of going into the house before stripping down your clothes.
Skunk spray is naturally oily and it'll get onto anything you touch and is hard to remove, so don't touch furniture or anyone else. Also, don't touch your face, you don't want the stuff near your eyes.

Leave your clothes outside for now and take a shower with the hottest water you can stand.

To clean your clothes:
Wash all items twice using hot water and a good detergent.
Don't put the clothes in the dryer! Hang outside to dry.

To clean your house:
Open the windows and turn on a fan. Fresh air is the most effective remedy to air out the house.
Hang the smaller rugs that you can handle outside.
Once the deed is done be sure to change the air filters in your home.
Now for the best tips of all, Apple Cider Vinegar and Baking Soda
Place vinegar is small bowls around the house and it will absorb the odors. Give them a day or two before removing the vinegar.
To remove odor from your carpets, sprinkle baking soda over your rugs and carpets and let sit for a few hours before vacuuming.

You can use bleach to neutralize the smell from any wood or concrete items in your home. Just keep in mind bleach may discolor whatever it is you're cleaning:
1 cup Bleach
1 gallon Water
Put on rubber gloves and use an old rag to dip in the solution.
Be sure to use this mixture in a well ventilated area. Do not mix ammonia with bleach.

To clean your dog:
Tomato juice will work and so does a product called Skunk Off.
But this homemade recipe is a keeper and most likely you'll already have the ingredients on hand:

Mix together in a large bucket:
1 quart Hydrogen Peroxide
1/2 cup Baking Soda
1 tsp. liquid laundry soap or dish washing detergent

The first two ingredients form an alkaline peroxide that chemically changes the skunk spray into an odorless chemical. The soap breaks down the oily skunk essence. This formula is harmless to humans and pets. It is normal that it will bubble and foam. Use immediately after mixing. Don't store it in a closed container as it will expand and burst the container.
Wearing latex or rubber gloves, bathe your dog outside if possible.
Take the time to work the mixture down through the fur, but keep out of the dog's face and eyes.
Let it sit on the fur for ten minutes before rinsing thoroughly with fresh water.

Be sure your dog is up to date on his/her rabies vaccine. See your vet if there is any sign of injury.

Now why do skunks spray in the first place?
Most mammals have anal scent glands or sacs. When stressed, fearful or trying to ward off predators, these scent glands give off pungent aromas as a form of defense.
Skunks have two glands inside the anus. Each gland contains small amounts of an oily, yellow liquid that is secreted through a nipple-like protrusion just outside the anus. The odor is because this secretion contains sulphur compounds such as thiols and their acetate derivatives.

Skunks really are docile, non-aggressive misunderstood animals. What gets them into trouble is that being they are very near-sighted, they spook easily and the only defense they have is their spray, Their limited vision is why they become such easy prey to dogs.

Kitty Cat Grass Grazing

Anyone with house cats knows what a challenge it is to enjoy both your love of cats and your love of plants. Personally, I've given up and my plants are either hanging or kept in a room the cats aren't allowed. If the kitties weren't using the plant pots as a litter box they were constantly either nibbling at the leaves or turning the plant itself into a cat bed.

So as a pet owner who tries to understand the whys of their behavior rather than just be yelling at them, the reality is, is that cats love to be close to nature just as humans do. They not only enjoy the taste of nibbling on grass, but simply enjoy the smells and feel of fresh greens.

We have to remember that in the wild the first part of the prey predators eat is the stomach and intestinal contents.  Carnivorous animals receive lots of nutrients  needed for their good health. Grasses not only contain necessary fiber for good digestion, but also the benefits of chlorophyll.

So I think cats eat grass for three reasons. They receive nutrition that may be lacking in their usual diet. Eating grass tends to make them vomit which is their way of dealing with a tummy ache and hairballs. And the fact remains that they just may love the taste.

Grass is mainly fiber and being a cat's stomach doesn't have the enzymes needed to digest it, the body induces regurgitation. Now to think like a cat there is good reason for a way to bring back up undigested stomach contents. If you ever watch a cat eat a bird or a rodent it really has no choice but to simply eat the whole thing, bones, fur, feathers and all. The body has no need for certain parts so to bring bones and hair back up, it is nature's way of preventing intestinal damage from the bones or intestinal blockages from hair balls.

Any cat owner knows how fastidious cats can be with their grooming. Unless you are diligent and periodically use a grooming tool such as a furminator to help with shedding, your cat is going to be swallowing cat hair on a daily basis. If you have a cat in the house you just have to accept the fact that you're going to occasionally be dealing with cat vomit. Of course no one looks forward to cleaning up that wet pile of mystery contents nor the fight against the inevitable yellow stains that could spot your carpet or rugs. But no one wants the risk and cost of an intestinal blockage either. So don't make the mistake of not allowing your cat access to cat grass in trying to prevent any vomiting. With nothing to snack on, your cat will turn to your plants and since so many houseplants can be toxic, that is a risk too.

To grow your own cat grass you will need the following:

1.  Small pots
You should have more than one pot of grass growing so you can rotate. Cat grass isn't seeded once and be expected to grow and last very long. Between the cats' grazing, pulling it out of the ground, trying to lay in it, the grass eventually turns brown and falls over. So have more than one growing so you can rotate the pots and have a continuous supply to offer your kitties.
Don't bother using big trays. It'll look nice for a day but soon become a flattened mess from your cat laying and crushing the grass.

2. Organic potting soil
Get good quality potting soil such as Happy Frog. You don't need the risk of your cat ingesting fertilizers, pesticides or herbicides that may be in ordinary soil.

3. Cat grass seed
Wheat, oat, rye or barley seeds are the usual but wheat and oats are the most common. You can buy the seed already labeled as cat grass seed but to save money go to a natural food store that offers bulk raw seed. As long as you keep the seed dry and out of the sun it should stay viable for a few years.

4. Plastic wrap
Grass needs moisture and warmth to germinate. By lightly covering your pot with plastic wrap it increase and speed up the germination rate of the seed. Once the seeds have sprouted you do have to remove the plastic or your pot will mold.

5. Spray bottle with water
The seed has to be kept lightly moistened until germination so it is handy to daily mist the soil surface until the seeds sprout. To just water the whole thing increases the chance the seed will be too wet and not sprout at all. Once the plastic is removed you can water as you normally would.

Steps:
Fill your pots with the soil up to 1-2 inches from the top.
Sprinkle a thin, even layer of seed over the surface.
Cover with about 1/4 inch of soil.
Wet the surface but not to drench.
Cover the pot with plastic wrap.
Put the pots in a dark, warm area. The top of a fridge is a good spot.
Check daily for signs of sprouting, mist if the soil appears dry.
After a few days you'll see signs of seed germination.
Keep the plastic on until the grass is an inch or two high.
Remove the plastic and place the pots in a sunny location.
Once the grass reaches 4-6 inches in height and established, you can offer it to your cats.
If you give them access too soon the roots won't be anchored yet and pull out too easily.
Put the pot on a tray or somewhere you won't mind a little mess. There is a good chance you'll find some grass and dirt outside of the pot.

Cleaning up vomit stains:

Remove the solids and blot blot blot the excess moisture. Don't rub, blot!
Sprinkle baking soda on the area to neutralize the acids and absorb any remaining liquid.
Let the baking soda dry, then vacuum it up.
Follow with a splash of club soda if any stains remain and blot it up.
Remember, don't scrub it while it is wet or the stain may be driven deeper into the carpet fibers.

If you notice your cat actually binging on grass there may be something wrong so it may be best to pay a visit to your veterinarian.




If you do let your cats outside try to keep their wandering limited in order to not only keep them off the road but to be sure they aren't snacking on grass areas that had been sprayed with herbicide or pesticide.


The ultimate in cat greens pleasure is catnip. Catnip is in the mint family so doesn't make a very good houseplant but can easily be grown outside during the summer. If just planted it will return wherever it pleases so unless that doesn't matter to you, be sure to plant it in pots. Catnip is easy to cut and dry so  that you'll have plenty to offer your indoor cats. Here is a good post on the subject of catnip.